Dining Hot Spots

The North Coast might just be the perfect place to eat. Few other places in the world can offer such a harmonious blend of chefs, farmers, fishermen and foragers working together with winemakers and brew masters to create culinary magic. With the ocean’s bounty to the west, sustainable farms and vineyards and artisanal food makers everywhere else, the North Coast naturally draws remarkable chefs interested in preparing ultra-fresh dishes that reflect what’s growing right now. Settings range from white-napkin finery to a chowder shack by the pier. Farmers’ markets here are friendly affairs, and they’re a great way to mingle with locals and sample the region’s bounty. Cheese-makers have a strong hold here, with sheep, goats and cows getting plenty of sweet grass in surrounding hills. 

"Farmers’ markets here are friendly affairs, and they’re a great way to mingle with locals and sample the region’s bounty."

And of course, there’s the sea. Locally caught wild fish is a staple on just about every menu, as well as seasonal crab and one of the world’s most valued foods, abalone.

Chef Alice Waters and her group of idealistic friends did not intend to spark a movement when they opened Chez Panisse in Berkeley in 1971; they just wanted to do things right—which meant using sustainably sourced, organic, seasonal ingredients. It’s hard to open a menu without seeing those buzzwords nowadays, but make no mistake: the iconic Berkeley restaurant—still going strong—was the first glimmer of today’s nation-sweeping celebration of ultra-fresh, hyper-local, farm-to-table dining. Sample it at the communal tables at Gather, also in Berkeley, or in Marin County at Farmshop (Larkspur), in Sonoma County at Zazu (Sebastopol), Farm House Inn & Restaurant (Forestville) and Terrapin Creek (Bodega Bay). Also in the East Bay, Oakland has emerged has a hotbed of innovative chefs and restaurants, like Commis and Haven.

In San Francisco, it’s almost impossible not to eat well, with Michelin-starred options ranging from Atelier Crenn to Zuni Cafe. Find some of the hippest places to dine along Valencia Street in the Mission District, with a head-spinning number of chic bars and restaurants and almost every type of global cuisine—plus awesome ice cream at Bi-Rite, Mitchell’s or Cream. Little Italy and the Jackson Square neighbourhood have more great finds, like Bix and Michelin-starred Quince.    

Napa Valley offers not just great wines, but amazing food too. Thomas Keller’s multi-Michelin-starred The French Laundry, in Yountville, is the big deal in reservations—you might have better luck if you’re willing to go for lunch, or opt for Keller’s bistro fare at Bouchon. Or try Keller’s family-style comfort food at Ad Hoc, also in Yountville. In Saint Helena, three-starred The Restaurant at Meadowood offers impeccable cuisine in elegant wine-country splendour, and Press showcases local meats and produce from its own farms.

But with all these new trends, there’s still something to be said for San Francisco classics: crusty Boudin sourdough bread (first baked here in 1849), the martini (debuted in 1850), Irish coffee (perfected in 1952 at the still-serving-them-today Buena Vista Café) and timeless steamed Dungeness crab dipped in melted butter.

With the Pacific Ocean and San Diego Bay on its doorstep, San Diego defines waterfront dining. Travel the coast to get a taste—literally—of what the region has to offer along the edge of the sea.

Travelling from south to north start in peaceful Coronado and relax at the Instagram worthy Bluewater Grill housed in the historic former Hotel del Coronado Boathouse that was built in 1887 as a chart house.

Casual lunch? San Diego Pier Café on the waterfront serves hearty cioppino and crunch perfect fish and chips. Also in the city centre on the Embarcadero there’s Sally’s Fish House & Bar and The Fish Market, two more places to try for a fresh catch of the day with waterfront views.

Across San Diego Bay head to Harbor Island and Tom Ham’s Lighthouse (yes, it really is housed in a lighthouse). Nearby Island Prime makes the most of the view with floor to ceiling windows and an over the water terrace and Coasterra Modern Mexican’s 2,600 square metre presence on the water with views to match is nothing short of a San Diego al fresco dining mecca.  

If you want tunes try Humphrey’s Restaurant on Shelter Island; check the calendar for the live music slated for its outdoor amphitheatre. Also on Shelter Island is Bali Hai Restaurant which offers Polynesian cuisine (seafood prepared with ingredients such as coconut milk, ginger, lime, tamarind and tropical fruits) as well as extensive vegetarian and gluten free menus. In nearby Point Loma check out Point Loma Seafoods which specialises in homemade hickory smoked fillets served on hot sourdough bread and has been an institution since 1963. Two streets away is Brigantine Seafood & Oyster Bar.

Finally, head up to La Jolla for brunch at Brockton Villa—the Crab Ipanema Eggs Benedict won’t disappoint. Around the corner is George’s on the Cove which Open Table has rated as one of the 100 best al fresco restaurants in the country. The multilevel views are incredible and what may be their signature offering, fish tacos on the terrace, has earned a dedicated following. 

In San Francisco, ingredient-driven menus reign supreme. With some of the nation’s best produce at their fingertips, chefs in the City by the Bay create edible magic, often changing menus nightly to reflect what’s freshest and tastiest that day. Many chefs work closely with local farms and food purveyors to get exactly the ingredients they want. Early-morning trips to one of the city’s year-round farmers' markets are part of the routine for these wizards of the kitchen. Special occasion fine-dining restaurants, many sprinkled with Michelin stars, are aplenty, like the smooth sophistication of triple-starred Quince, Benu, Atelier Crenn and Saison, and the double-starred Coi, Acquerello and Lazy Bear.

Of course, Michelin stars are not a prerequisite to having a memorable dining experience. Lively, crowded and innovative options line the streets of the Mission District, particularly along Valencia Street. At Fisherman’s Wharf, where seafood is king, a bowl of cioppino (an Italian-American 'catch-of-the-day' stew made with Dungeness crab, clams, prawns, scallops, squid, mussels and fish) is an absolute San Francisco must. Scoma’s has been serving it up on Pier 47 for over half a century. Another long-standing seafood favourite is Tadich Grill, near the Embarcadero. And the Union Square area has long been a destination for both fancy meals (Campton Place and Morton’s Steakhouse come to mind) as well as numerous more inexpensive options.

Inexpensive options are easy to find, too: consider the many Asian restaurants in Richmond, where along Clement Street you’ll find outstanding Vietnamese at Pho Hyunh Sang, and Burmese cuisine at Burma Superstar and B Star Bar. In the same area, there’s Jijime for Korean and Jiangnan Cuisine for Shanghainese. Visit the Mission for their famously cheap and gargantuan burritos, or track down food vans serving up nearly every kind of food imaginable at gatherings sponsored by Off the Grid. San Francisco also has more than its share of excellent places to eat where the view is as good as the food.

Walk (slowly) through the Ferry Building Marketplace, where permanent stalls sell local delicacies such as crusty sourdough (Acme Bread) and artisanal cheese (Cowgirl Creamery), and sit-down restaurants, like Charles Phan’s celebrated Slanted Door, offer amazing food and waterfront views.

The sun dipping below the western horizon, a blanket of city lights spread out at your feet, the Hollywood Sign glowing from its hillside perch, these are memorable sights from any vantage point, but there’s nothing quite like taking them in from a rooftop in the middle of Los Angeles. One of the best things about LA is the weather, and sunny days offer an extra bonus: warm evenings and nights. So relaxing outside, perhaps on cushy banquettes around a swimming pool glowing with cool blue light—well, it doesn’t get much sexier than that.

For a sultry, see-and-be-seen experience, head to E.P & L.P. This West Hollywood spot is part swanky Asian restaurant (E.P) and part rooftop club (L.P). Rub shoulders with the stars as you sip an alcoholic boba tea and gaze out at the glimmering Hollywood Hills. Those preferring a lower profile should retreat to the nearby Rooftop at the Palihouse. Lush greenery, stylish chairs and chic lanterns complement 360-degree views and hibiscus cocktails. For a brush with the super exclusive, book a room at WeHo’s Petit Ermitage. Open only to hotel guests, the rooftop is pure magic with its saltwater pool, seasonal cocktails and a butterfly garden so well done that it’s recognised as a sanctuary by the National Wildlife Federation.

Another excellent option is The Roof on Wilshire, above the Hotel Wilshire in the heart of Downtown. Relax on wraparound banquettes to watch the skyline light up, and sip on one of the bar’s signature mule-style drinks until the stars come out. Also in the Downtown area is Upstairs Bar at the Ace Hotel, with tropical drinks and views of the towering San Gabriel Mountains. A new addition to DTLA, The Rooftop at The Nomad serves tiki cocktails and inspired ice-cream sandwiches on its terracotta deck, which is dotted with lemon trees. Just a few streets away is the literal pinnacle of the city’s nightlife: Spire 73, which sits atop the Intercontinental Hotel and is the highest outdoor bar in the Western Hemisphere. If you want a wacky and unforgettable night, try to nab one of the spaceship-like waterbed pods alongside the pool at The Rooftop at The Standard, Downtown LA. Or head to The Fonda Theatre, where rooftop guests can watch a live feed of the night’s performance.

Sure, you can get your fill of corn dogs and candy floss down on the boardwalk, but tucked into historic buildings in town, and in nearby communities, there are surprising finds, with talented chefs and artisan food makers tempting you to try their latest creations. First, let’s talk coffee. Warm up on foggy mornings with a rich, tasty brew at two local favourites, Santa Cruz Coffee Roasting Company and Lu Lu Carpenter's. For decadent pastries along with your java, try Kelly’s French Bakery, a happy find tucked among warehouses on the west side of town. For a lunch break from the beach, head to Zoccoli’s Delicatessen (we dare you not to love the hot tri-tip sandwich), and double-scoops of lively flavours (ginger snap or lemon poppyseed) at Penny Ice Creamery. Marianne’s is another favourite for ice cream, with innovative flavours such as spicy Mexican Chocolate or Northern Oregon Blackberry.  

Hopefully you’ll have room for an amazing dinner. There’s a huge range of options—get fresh seafood and sunset views at Johnny’s Harborside and Crow’s Nest; or for Italian cuisine settle in at homey and charming Lillian’s (black truffle-stuffed gnocchi for grown-ups, classic meatballs for kids). La Posta, in the Seabright neighbourhood, features a fresh, market-driven menu. 

When it comes to food, San José goes global. Enjoy a kaleidoscope of ethnic restaurants, including Ethiopian fare at Zeni (try to sit at one of the round tables in the back). American-style meat and potatoes get matched with rotating craft beers at local favourite Harry’s Hofbrau. 

Star chefs have staked a claim in San José too; Michelin-star-nabbing Michael Mina oversees the kitchen at Arcadia, a steakhouse that’s a popular spot before or after shows at the nearby San Jose Center for the Performing Arts.

Downtown has a lively, open-late food hall, San Pedro Square Market, a great place for a quality grab-and-go meal. How about a ‘fusion’ hot dog from Calidog? A glass of wine from local vintners at Vino Vino? Check out Treatbot, the ice cream trike from the future, serving up karaoke and local ice cream flavours like the ‘408’ (caramel ice cream, fudge and Oreos). No sense goes un-served in the public market’s three halls: keep your nose peeled for the aroma of roasted coffee beans and wood-fired pizza. Also enjoy live entertainment and local artwork.

On sunny days (which are the norm here), take your food out to a table or bench in the adjacent plaza, bordered by the 1797 Peralta Adobe (the city’s oldest building; guided tours are offered throughout the year).  

To fuel your excursions in and around Big Sur, you’d be wise to begin at least one morning with strong coffee, local eggs, and house-made sourdough toast at Big Sur Bakery and Restaurant. The quirky restaurant—located behind the gas station in a rustic, funky building—also serves dinner, including superlative wood-fired pizza. 

If you're driving from the south, grab a snack to go at the Ragged Point Inn’s Sandwich Stand—or stay for a romantic sunset dinner at their gourmet restaurant, where you’ll choose seasonal entrées from the daily-changing chalkboard menu.

For a signature Ambrosia Burger served with a world-class view, head to Nepenthe, where a huge deck overlooks the Pacific—nurse your fries and beer and stay until sunset. For a dress-up night out (and at Big Sur that generally means look presentable and don’t wear flip-flops), book a table at Post Ranch Inn’s restaurant, Sierra Mar (for dinner, consider the four-course prixe-fixe option), or settle into the rustic lodge-like restaurant at Ventana Big Sur, focusing on American cuisine made with local ingredients. 

Just a few miles north of Ventana, be sure to visit Big Sur Roadhouse at Glen Oaks Big Sur, where Cajun-style seasonings mix it up with ultra-local ingredients (think gumbo made with just-caught seafood and you'll get the picture). The roadhouse's design is as intriguing as its food, with an airy interior accented with recycled and salvaged wood details, edgy modern art, and inviting outdoor seating surrounded by redwoods.