Spotlight: Santa Catalina Island
Swaying palms, white-sand beaches, and melt-your-heart sunsets—that’s what you’ll find at island getaway Santa Catalina Island, just 22 miles/35 kilometers off the Southern California coast. Catalina, as everyone calls it, has all the elements you want in an island retreat—appealing lodgings, tempting seafood restaurants, beachy splendor, and family-friendly water sports. But you’ll also discover the unexpected, including a star-studded history—Marilyn Monroe lived here—exotic gardens, and even a wine estate.
Climb aboard the Catalina Express ferry for the one-hour ride across the sea from Long Beach, San Pedro, or Dana Point, or take the Catalina Flyer from Newport Beach; or, splurge on a 15-minute helicopter ride. Once you arrive, get around with rented golf carts or bikes, or just amble around on foot to explore the town of Avalon or play along Descanso Beach, where you can rent kayaks or paddleboards. There’s also a taxi stand in the center of town, and trolley services run regularly in the summer, plus weekends in the off season.
Divvy up your island time with an array of outdoor fun. Play a round of golf, zipline above Descanso Canyon, or ride across the island on a Jeep tour with the Catalina Island Conservancy (look for the rare Santa Catalina Island fox and the resident bison, who have lived here since a movie shoot in the 1920s).
With brilliant blue water and fascinating sea life, undersea adventures beckon in Catalina. The hub of many water sports and activities is Descanso Beach, a pretty 1-mile/1.5-kilometer stroll north of Avalon Harbor. Here you can rent kayaks and stand-up paddleboards (lessons and guided tours available)—a great way to see dolphins, seals, sea lions, and, if you’re lucky, resident flying fish. For a novel way to see pumpkin-orange garibaldi fish and other ocean creatures, join a SeaTrek adventure: A specially outfitted diving helmet lets you literally walk across the sea floor while breathing fresh air. If you prefer to keep your feet dry, join a glass-bottom boat tour or entertaining mini-submarine tour of Avalon Harbor.
In the island hub of Avalon, take a few hours to visit the Catalina Island Museum, splurge at ice-cream parlors, and browse galleries and souvenir shops. Don’t miss taking a guided walking tour of the non-gambling Catalina Casino, a dramatic circular Art Deco building that has stood as a welcoming sentinel since just before the Great Depression. Steer your golf cart up the twisty roads to Avalon Canyon’s Wrigley Memorial and Botanic Garden, 38 acres filled with plants endemic to California’s islands. Within the garden is a striking stone memorial to William Wrigley Jr. The head of the Wrigley chewing gum empire, who died in 1932, purchased most of Catalina Island and protected it as a private land conservancy.
If you plan to explore beyond Avalon, shuttle bus and charter van services are available from Avalon to the Airport in the Sky, the town of Two Harbors, and campgrounds in the island’s center.
Visiting a town that can only be toured on foot, bike, or golf cart says a lot about the pace of things. While Avalon’s residents can tool around in (mostly) tiny cars, vans, and trucks (see if you can spot the world’s smallest Fed Ex delivery truck), visitors can’t rent cars to get around. That may seem like a hassle, but visitors often say one of their favorite things to do on Catalina is to noodle up and down Avalon’s steep and twisty roads in one of the toy-like carts, where 5 miles/8 kilometers per hour seems plenty fast enough for the pace of island life. Even without a cart, there is plenty to do along the flat and pretty waterfront—visit souvenir shops, splurge at ice-cream parlors, browse galleries, or take a guided walking tour of historic Avalon Casino (with arguably one of the most beautiful promenades on the planet).
"Dining? Order fresh oysters and sparkling wine at romantic Ristorante Villa Portofino and take in sunset view of the harbor."
Dining? Order fresh oysters and sparkling wine at romantic Ristorante Villa Portofino and take in sunset view of the harbor. To venture further, catch a trolley, cab, or bus, or take a guided Jeep tour.
Catalina Water Sports
On an island, undersea adventures beckon, especially on Catalina, where the water sparkles brilliant blue, water clarity is outstanding, and fascinating sea life abounds. The hub of many water sports and activities is Descanso Beach, a pretty 1-mile/1.5-kilometer stroll north of Avalon Harbor. Here you can rent kayaks and stand-up paddleboards (lessons and guided tours available)—a great way to see dolphins, seals, sea lions, and, if you’re lucky, resident flying fish.
While California’s Pacific waters are refreshingly comfortable here (up to 70°F/22°C in summer), most snorkelers and SCUBA divers don wetsuits to explore underwater; gear and instructors are available on the island. For a novel way to see pumpkin-orange garibaldi fish and other ocean creatures, join a SeaTrek adventure: A specially outfitted diving helmet lets you literally walk across the sea floor while breathing fresh air. If you prefer to keep your feet dry, join a glass-bottom boat tour or entertaining mini-submarine tour of Avalon Harbor.
Adventure seekers can take a ferry ride or rent a boat in Avalon to reach rustic Two Harbors, on the island’s west end; the off-the-grid hamlet is a popular place for overnight sailboat and powerboat trips, as well as snorkeling, diving, and kayaking. Head all the way around the island to the remote and wild Little Harbor cove—one of the state’s prettiest campgrounds.
Founded in 1972, the Catalina Island Conservancy, one of the oldest private land trusts in Southern California, protects 88 percent of Catalina Island as a carefully managed preserve. Home to more than 60 endemic plant, animal, and insect species found nowhere else on earth, Catalina’s so-called “Interior” is home to rare species, including the Santa Catalina Island fox.
Join a guided Eco Jeep Tour (or guided hikes in summer) to bounce along on dirt roads with experienced naturalists; they’ll share information and insights about the foxes and other native species, as well as Catalina’s most unexpected residents, a lumbering herd of American bison (their ancestors were brought to the island in 1924 as extras for a movie). The popular Wildlands Express bus tour takes visitors to the famous “Airport in the Sky,” a small airstrip atop a peak at the island’s center. Mountain bikers can buy a day pass to explore 40 miles/64 kilometers of trails and unpaved road (gear and guided tours are available).
Golfing on Catalina
Tucked away in scenic Avalon Canyon, the meandering Catalina Island Golf Course is a public course that feels like a private resort. Its nine challenging holes offer canyon and ocean views, and each hole has two different tee boxes in case you want to play 18. There’s also a shady putting green, popular with dads and kids. In fact, Tiger Woods played this course as a young boy. Originally a clubhouse for William Wrigley Jr.’s Chicago Cubs, who held spring training on the island from 1921 to 1951, the historic Catalina Country Club is a nice spot to enjoy a relaxed al fresco lunch, even if you’re not a golfer.
From its regal setting at the north end of Avalon Harbor, this dramatic circular building has stood as a welcoming sentinel since just before the Great Depression. The impressive Art Deco building was the dream of by chewing gum magnate William Wrigley Jr., who bought controlling interest of Catalina Island in 1919. Wrigley saw the casino as a way of casting a magical spell on all who arrived—a way of seeming to say, “look, here is beauty, relaxation, and fun,” and a way to—for at least a little while—escape the country’s troubled times.
"Wrigley saw the casino as a way of casting a magical spell on all who arrived"
Inside, Wrigley hosted lavish dances and performances. Today, the tradition continues, and annual events guests (many dressed in period attire) still twirl in the casino’s grand ballroom, or watch first-run movies in the elaborately painted theater on the lower level. (On Friday and Saturday evenings, arrive an hour before show time for a live performance on the theater’s spectacular pipe organ.) Guided walking tours are also a must, shedding light on Avalon’s history and Hollywood connection. The Behind-the-Scenes Tour lets you peek into dressing rooms that had been closed for 70 years, and to walk on the stage where famed musicians like Benny Goodman played to adoring fans.
Catalina’s Luxury Lodgings & Beach Club
What’s an island getaway without a swanky place to sleep? Choices on Catalina include the Avalon Hotel, the carefully restored California Craftsman-style building that combines rich mahogany wood with Catalina’s signature tile artwork. And the hotel’s rooftop deck might just be the perfect place to relax with a glass of bubbly. Rooms at the oceanfront Snug Harbor Inn rooms come with jetted tubs and fireplaces. Hotel Metropole, named for the island’s original grand hotel (which burned in 1915), was rebuilt with sumptuous, coastal style—for an unforgettable splurge, book the 2-bedroom, 2-bath Beach House, where you can wrap yourself in soft robes and take in panoramic ocean views from your private deck.
High above Avalon, with fantastic twilight views of the harbor and Avalon Casino, there’s The Inn on Mt. Ada, housed in the original Wrigley mansion, with nice touches like ice cream available for guests in the butler’s pantry, plus appetizers, wine, and California bubbly, served every evening. For a roomier option on the island, consider renting a condo in the posh Hamilton Cove area; many units include golf carts so you can make the 5-minute drive down to Avalon—if you ever feel like budging from your chaise on your deck or by the pool. Exclusive Descanso Beach Club rents chi-chi private cabanas, plus beach valets and other spoil-me touches.
For a more remote getaway, travel to Two Harbors, north of Avalon, and Banning House Lodge, with expansive views of the Isthmus of Catalina and Catalina Harbor.
Catalina Island Museum
Devoted to art, culture, and island history, this gem of a museum is a great way to orient yourself when you first get to Avalon. Located in the Ada Blanche Wrigley Schreiner Building, the museum includes a permanent installation, "The History of Catalina Island," that chronicles the island's discovery 8,000 years ago and traces its emergence as a beloved vacation destination. Visitors will learn about Catalina's famous residents, like Norma Jean (a.k.a. Marilyn Monroe) as well as the island's role during World War II. You’ll also discover fun facts about the legacy of chewing gum magnate William Wrigley Jr., who bought most of the rights to the island in 1919. (The Wrigley family still owns and manages much of the island.)
The Catalina Island Museum also features rotating exhibitions; music and dance performances; lectures by guest speakers; and the finest in silent, documentary, and international film. After your museum visit, peruse the offerings in The Museum Store, which include Catalina tile and Chicago Cubs merchandise. Then walk, bike, or ride your golf cart to the Wrigley Memorial in the island’s botanical garden, near the golf course on the east end of town.
Hiking and Camping on Catalina
Remote canyons, windswept ridges, secret coves and beaches—here’s a place where you can recharge your mental batteries rather than your phone. Managed by the Catalina Island Conservancy, the pristine interior—the name for the 88 percent of the island that isn’t developed—is a permit-only mini-wilderness, perfect for a day of off-the-grid hiking. While you might not be up for trekking the entire 37-mile/60-kilometer-long Trans-Catalina Trail, you can do just a few miles. Get trail maps and tips from the staff at Catalina Island Conservancy, in Avalon; they’ll also issue you a free hiking permit (required), or you can get one online. Hikers typically ride the local shuttle bus to the airport to avoid the big hump up the main access point.
To really get away from it all, consider an overnight at one of the island’s five campgrounds or 17 boat or kayak-in campsites (again—you’ll need a permit, available in Avalon, at Two Harbors, or Hermit Gulch). Closest to Avalon is Hermit Gulch, a good option if you’re a camping newbie or you have little ones. Two Harbors, on a bluff overlooking the ocean, offers tent cabin as well as campsites. Little Harbor offers beachfront camping on the island’s wild and beautiful oceanfront side—just note it can be windy here. Want even more adventure? Take the tough hike—or paddle a kayak—to remote Parson’s Landing, shaded by pines and eucalyptus.
If that doesn’t get your adrenaline running enough, take Catalina’s Zip Line Eco Tour, a nearly 4,000-foot/1,219-meter descent down the canyon to Descanso Beach.
Getting Around Santa Catalina Island
That beautiful stretch of ocean between Catalina and the Southern California coast does make for a magical setting; it also makes for a little bit of extra planning to get to the island getaway. Ferries leave regularly year-round from four mainland ports (Long Beach, Dana Point, Newport Beach, and San Pedro). Keep your eyes peeled—dolphins and whales are frequently seen.
On this island, walking is the preferred mode of transportation. In fact, cars are so frowned upon that there’s a 14-year wait list to own one on the island. Luckily, the main town of Avalon is only one square mile, making most attractions an easy stroll apart. Cabs and shuttles meet all incoming ferries, so it’s easy to catch a lift to your lodging. Or just walk into town from the ferry landing. There’s also a taxi stand in the center of town, and trolley services run regularly along two scheduled routes in the summer, plus weekends in the off season. Golf carts are popular for touring the hills above town—rentals are easily available, as are bike rentals. If you plan to explore beyond Avalon, shuttle bus and charter van services are available from Avalon to the Airport in the Sky, the town of Two Harbors, and campgrounds in the island’s center.
Ready to arrive in style, or maybe just in a hurry? Private plane or helicopter service is available.
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