고요한 해변 너머에서 찾아오는 캘리포니아의 가을은 생각보다 더 풍요롭습니다. 북부 샤스타 캐스케이드(Shasta Cascade) 지역에서부터 샌디에이고 카운티까지 자연의 색이 차례로 덧입혀집니다. 사시나무, 오크, 단풍나무, 미루나무, 층층나무 등 캘리포니아의 가을 숲이 눈부신 금빛과 선연한 붉은 빛으로 물들죠.
바다와 산이 인접해 있는 캘리포니아는 다른 곳과 다른 가을 풍경을 선사하기도 합니다. 예를 들어 포도 농장 지대에서는 독특한 포도나무 잎의 단풍이 펼쳐지며, 수확철에 발로 밟아 포도를 으깨거나 와인을 시음하는 체험도 해볼 수 있죠. 샤스타 캐스케이드 지역과 산악 지대에서는 곱게 물든 숲이 사진 작가들과 단풍구경 하는 방문객들에게 색색의 풍경을 선사합니다. 골드 컨트리(Gold Country)로 가면 설탕단풍나무와 미국풍나무의 단풍이 아름답습니다. 이 나무들은 19세기에 풍요를 찾아 캘리포니아로 온 개척자들이 심은 씨앗들의 결과입니다. 단풍을 구경하며 이동하다가 잠시 멈추어 파이를 한 조각 먹거나 맥주를 한 잔 마시거나 그저 경치를 보며 잠시 쉴 만한 곳도 많습니다.
가을 풍경은 순식간에 지나가므로 시기를 잘 잡아야 합니다. 캘리포니아 가을의 광채는 높은 산에서 시작하여 산기슭으로 산마루를 따라 내려옵니다. 그러나 다른 많은 숲이 이미 겨울로 접어든 11월까지 단풍을 즐길 수 있는 지역도 있습니다. 그러니 사과 주스를 한 잔 마시고 아침 공기를 느끼며 카메라를 손에 드십시오. 그리고 길을 나서세요! 아래에서 단풍 명소들을 피크 시즌 순서대로 소개하겠습니다.
—앤 마리 브라운(Ann Marie Brown)
Nature’s autumnal fire burns bright on the eastern side of the Sierra, where glaciers have chiseled stream-fed canyons deep into the mountainsides. Starting in mid-September, drive any road heading west off U.S. 395 near June Lake and Mammoth Lakes to find dense groves of quaking aspens and willows. Each canyon has its own charms, but the blue-ribbon fall foliage drive is the June Lake Loop (Highway 158).
Try to keep your eyes on the road as you cruise past the flaming aspen extravaganza at Silver Lake, where leaves glow like stained-glass windows in the afternoon sun. Continue past 10,909-foot Carson Peak on your way to Gull Lake and June Lake’s village. When you hit eye-candy overload, stop at the June Lake Brewing Company and sip a thirst-arresting double IPA. Or take a walk on the 4-mile round-trip Parker Lake Trail to see an emerald-blue lake framed by more quaking aspens and craggy peaks.
Mammoth Lakes also has its share of golden treasures. Near downtown, stroll or drive near Sherwin Creek Campground where aspen groves light up in tints of translucent reds, oranges, yellows, and lime greens. Or head south of town to drive aspen-lined McGee Creek Road or Rock Creek Road, then celebrate the stunning beauty with a slice of pie at Rock Creek Lakes Resort. In this high country, near 10,000 feet, fall colors typically peak in late September, but in the lower canyons, colors linger until mid-October.
Fall begins in the high country as early as mid-September when Tahoe’s meadows and hillsides begin to flame in bright hues of gold. Willows are the first to turn, soon followed by aspens. See them on the lake’s northwest shore as the foliage at Page Meadows lights up in a spectrum of yellow mixed with touches of ruby and amber. To get there, hike 1.5 miles north on the Tahoe Rim Trail from Ward Creek Boulevard. From the meadow’s edge, Twin Peaks, Grouse Rock, and Ward Peak soar above the trees.
In South Lake Tahoe, drive the Fallen Leaf Lake Road to Fredrick’s Meadow, a short distance from Fallen Leaf Lake Campground, where a vista of Mount Tallac is perfectly framed by a foreground of quaking aspens. For more leafy color, continue along the road to the Glen Alpine trailhead and walk a colorful mile along the cobbled trail to Glen Alpine Springs.
South of Lake Tahoe, Hope Valley’s dense aspen groves offer nearly psychedelic displays of yellows and oranges. Drive south through Meyers on Highway 89 to its junction with Highway 88, then toss a coin and turn left or right. You win either way—a bounty of color lines the road in both directions. To the west, especially showy aspen stands are found near Red Lake, in and around Carson Pass, and near Woods Lake. To the east lie the picturesque Norwegian-style cabins of Sorenson’s Resort. Stop here or at neighboring Hope Valley Resort for a hearty meal or to watch the aspens dance in the autumn sun.
Yosemite National Park is blessed with towering peaks, free-flowing rivers, iconic granite formations, and a more-than-generous helping of autumn color. In Yosemite Valley’s grassy meadows, the black oaks turn a soft, burnished gold, a subtle contrast to the scene-stealing school bus yellow of the cottonwoods. Walk the path through Stoneman Meadow on the Valley’s east end to get a picture-perfect perspective of the leafy splendor.
On the Valley’s west side, the waterway at Bridalveil Creek is home to big-leaf maples turning gold and dogwoods cloaked in crimson red. One of Yosemite Valley’s most photographed autumn trees is a non-native—a stately sugar maple planted near Yosemite Chapel that turns a brilliant red.
Near Crane Flat and the Highway 120 park entrance, the burgundy leaves of dogwoods grab your attention amid the hunter green of sugar pines and white firs. Look closely among the red splashes and you’ll find that some dogwood leaves are actually a flaming pink. On the park’s south side, Highway 41 also has showy dogwoods and a colorful understory of low-growing shrubs, especially deer brush and bear clover.
Elevations are a bit lower in the northern Sierra, so Plumas County’s autumn palette tends to last longer than in the mountains farther south. It’s worth visiting the Lakes Basin Recreation Area for the flaming color show alone, but the region also has alpine lakes, rock-bound peaks, waterfalls, and miles of trails to explore. Take a hike at Plumas-Eureka State Park in Johnsville, where $25 million in gold was mined in the late 1880s. Visit the five-story stamp mill and miners’ boarding house then find your own gold rush in the exuberant show of oaks, dogwoods, and cottonwoods.
For leaf-peeping from your car window, Gold Lake Road (off Highway 89 near Graeagle) offers a 20-mile-long tour of aspens and willows, with showy stands found near Lakes Basin Campground.
The town of Quincy makes a perfect home base for leaf driving tours with its array of hotels and restaurants. Highways 70 and 89, between Quincy and Lake Almanor, show off a dazzling spectrum of autumn colors—watch for golden oak and chokecherry along the roadside, plus the flaming hot red of Indian rhubarb growing alongside the creek. Or travel the road to Bucks Lake for an eye-popping explosion of dogwood.
A steep, winding drive across the Middle Fork Feather River to the Gold Rush town of La Porte (population 26) rewards leaf-peepers with the yellow glow of big-leaf maples and the wine-red tones of dogwood. Quincy’s colors can also be seen on foot by walking the Spanish Creek Trail where wild grape and Indian rhubarb are plentiful.
When gold miners poured into the Sierra foothills in the mid-1800s, they fought off homesickness by planting seeds from their hometown trees. That’s why Nevada Street in downtown Nevada City is decorated with century-old sugar maples and American sweetgums (liquidambars) that turn stoplight red in autumn. They’re show-stopping fall foliage champs. Take a stroll around the historic district—the New England ambience is further enhanced by Victorian buildings and a skyward-pointing church steeple.
Just east of Nevada City is Banner Mountain, where the Cascade Canal Trail makes an easy autumn meander. This level path, shaded by deep green Douglas firs and colorful dogwoods, follows alongside a tranquil canal 4.5 miles one way, so walk as far as you like then retrace your steps.
In Grass Valley’s downtown area, Neal Street is the nexus for Vermont-style leaf color, but a more expansive display of the early settlers’ tree planting lies just a mile away at Empire Mine State Park. Among the historic mine buildings, the colorful leaves of ornamental sweetgums, silver maples, and sugar maples accent the more subtle gold of native black oaks. Visit the museum and Empire Mine model, which shows the mine’s astounding 367 miles of underground tunnels. Check out the nuggets in the gold room then walk any of the paths that start at the Gold Hill Trailhead to see oaks and maples wearing their fall colors.
Starting in mid- to late-October, the grape harvest crush winds down as the leaf pageant begins its debut. Fall color in the wine country isn’t limited to trees—the verdant grape leaves of summer transform into radiant foliage in fall, with crisp coppers and ruby reds accentuating any grapes left on the vine. Witness the beauty by driving the Silverado Trail from Napa to Calistoga. Take your pick from dozens of wineries, including Frog’s Leap, Rombauer Vineyards, and Reynolds Family Winery, all worth a stop for fall scenery and wine tasting.
Many Napa vineyards have planted specimen trees like silver maples and liquidambars that dazzle in Technicolor. Make an appointment for a tour at Far Niente Winery in Oakville and you’ll get to admire its 40,000-square-foot wine-aging caves, plus its stately double row of ginkgo biloba trees. Hailing from China, these fall foliage kings are revered for their fan-shaped golden leaves that hang on long after oaks and maples have gone bare.
To see California’s native trees in autumn regalia, head to Bothe-Napa Valley State Park, south of Calistoga, and take a walk on the Redwood Trail alongside Ritchey Creek. Black oaks and big-leaf maples form a canopy over the creek that runs year-round. The big-leaf maples bear massive leaves—many bigger than your head—that turn a brilliant yellow in fall. Ferns, wild grape, and spice bush add to the color show. Climb to the top of Coyote Peak to get a birds-eye view of the entire forest.
It’s not all palm trees and sandy beaches in San Diego. The county has its share of premium foliage viewing too—all you have to do is head inland and uphill. In Julian, a historic mining town at 4,200 feet in elevation, autumn is the grandstand season when apple growers flaunt their crops and Julian apple pie and other treats headline every menu. Sample the crumb-topped confections at Julian Pie Company in Santa Ysabel, and stop in at neighboring Dudley’s Bakery for apple nut bread. Go see the region’s black oaks do their color-changing trick at Lake Cuyamaca in Rancho Cuyamaca State Park, or by hiking the Five Oaks Trail at Volcan Mountain Wilderness Preserve. Some of the oldest and largest black oaks in San Diego County grow on Volcan Mountain, and the 5,719-foot summit rewards hikers with a view spanning from the Pacific to the desert.
Other leafy road trips near Julian include a drive up Palomar Mountain, where meadows filled with bracken ferns turn a deep, rich gold. The Observatory Trail, which connects Palomar Observatory to Observatory Campground, is lined with leafy black oaks. At Palomar Mountain State Park, Doane Pond’s meadowy vista morphs into a classic autumn Instagram.
It’s called Oak Glen with good reason. With an elevation that’s nearly a mile high, this town, 80 miles east of Los Angeles, is home to extensive oak groves, plus apple farms, berry ranches, and plenty of old-fashioned country twang. The seasons may not seem to change elsewhere in L.A., but here, autumn is palpable in the brilliant oaks dotting the hillsides. Visit Oak Glen’s historic schoolhouse museum, surrounded by bright red maple trees, then take a hike at the Wildlands Conservancy’s Oak Glen Preserve. The preserve sits side-by-side with century-old Los Rios Rancho, Southern California’s largest apple farm. A 2.4-mile family-friendly loop leads from the preserve headquarters downhill through the apple orchards and into Oak Knoll Park.
Oak Glen hangs its hat on harvest-themed fun. At Riley’s Farm, pick your own heirloom apples, press apple cider on a wooden cider press, or dine in an 18th-century colonial public house. At Los Rios Rancho, get lost in the corn maze or take a horse-drawn wagon ride. As autumn wears on, apple-picking gives way to pumpkin-picking, so be sure to take home a few of those lovable bright orange squashes.