Discover a more rustic side of Northern California’s LGBTQ+ scene in the woodsy setting of Guerneville, a Sonoma County town about 90 minutes north of San Francisco. Set among majestic redwood forests on the banks of the Russian River, this tucked-away hamlet has been the go-to gay getaway for Bay Area weekenders for decades, earning the nickname the “Gay Riviera.”
This lush getaway boasts an ample number of queer businesses, despite its modest population. The village’s rise in popularity as a laid-back retreat began in the mid-1970s, when summertime heat and affordable prices drew LGBTQ+ travelers and other vacationers northward.
Today, that bohemian spirit remains, thanks in part to its charming downtown strip, cozy cabins, and proximity to Johnson’s Beach on the winding river. Even better, Guerneville has a permanent sense of Pride that makes it worth visiting year-round.
Where to stay
For pinch-me-perfect romantic settings to enjoy with a partner, book a stay at the luxurious, Mission Revival–style hotel The Stavrand. Formerly known as the Applewood Inn, the six-acre estate received a top-to-bottom renovation in 2021 and has the attributes of a bed-and-breakfast, boutique hotel, and resort—all rolled into one.
For a lively social scene centered around the pool, R3 Hotel has been pumping up the volume and presenting a calendar full of events for decades.
Another option is Boon Hotel + Spa, opened in 2008 by local entrepreneur and quasi-celebrity chef and hotelier Crista Luedtke. Be sure to check out her other local restaurant endeavors, including the farm-to-table bistro Boon Eat + Drink and Road Trip, where you can enjoy classic street food favorites from around the world.
If you’re searching for a down-to-earth and easygoing stay, The Highlands resort offers a wide array of homey cabins and suites, and promotes an “unplugged” approach to relaxation. Finally, there’s The Woods, a gay-owned, adults-only property with a clothing-optional pool. Best of all, it’s centrally located in the downtown corridor.
Things to do
During the day, rent a canoe at Burke’s Canoe Trips—a local fixture for decades—then zigzag down the easy-to-paddle Russian River. Back on land, hike through stands of giant trees in Armstrong Redwoods State Natural Reserve, just north of town at the end of Armstrong Woods Road.
Add a bit of bubbles to your day with a wine tasting at Korbel California Champagnes, or follow country roads south towards Healdsburg, sampling acclaimed Pinot Noirs and Zinfandels at countless wineries along the way. At night, catch the action at the landmark Rainbow Cattle Co., a party destination since 1979, or the Bar at the R3 Hotel, another longtime favorite of the LGBTQ+ crowd.
Featured prominently on the Russian River calendar of events is an entire week starting in late July devoted to “bears”—and good deeds—during Lazy Bear Week, when profits from all dance parties, pool parties, wine tastings, gourmet meals and more go to charity.
In between all the revelry, don’t miss Baked on the River for their fresh cakes, cookies, muffins, and scones. In total, there are nearly two dozen eateries, bistros, and cafes along the Russian River—many of which are queer-owned.
Traveling with kids? Keep in mind that many LGBTQ+-focused accommodations in Guerneville cater primarily to adults. Be sure to check websites for family policies before booking. For kid-friendly ways to celebrate Pride Month, visit sonomacountypride.org to find events and activities.