What to do in Death Valley National Park

The historic Inn at Death Valley (formerly known as the Inn at Furnace Creek Resort) was built for roundabout reasons—the Pacific Coast Borax Company financed its construction as a means to save the company’s Death Valley Railroad after the borax business slowed. In the days before cars were common in the desert, many Hollywood stars took the train to this desert getaway. The railway didn’t survive the changing times, but this lovely hotel has aged gracefully since 1927.

Designed by a Los Angeles architect who took his inspiration from California’s Spanish missions, the 66-room inn is perched on a hill facing west, its stone patios offering views of Death Valley and the Panamint Mountains. Red tile roofs and stucco walls glow in the afternoon sun; palm trees sway and water fountains burble. Outdoor fireplaces flicker and glow around the edges of the spring-fed swimming pool. Splurges don’t feel much more special than this. If you’re just visiting on a day trip to the park, relax over lunch or afternoon tea in the inn’s restful dining room.

A 2017 revamp to the property will include adding 11 two-room casitas, a new wellness centre, a new dining room, and more. 

The Oasis at Death Valley also offers a budget-minded 244-room property, The Ranch at Death Valley, just down the road.

Appearing like a mirage in the desert, this Spanish-style castle is one of Death Valley’s oddest and most fabled attractions. Built in the 1920s by Chicago insurance executive Albert Johnson, Scotty’s Castle served as a holiday getaway for Johnson and his wife Bessie, but its primary resident was Walter Scott, a gold prospector and cowboy who performed in Buffalo Bill’s ‘Wild West’ show. Johnson had invested in Scott’s gold mining schemes and the two became friends. Scott told anyone who would listen that the $2 million castle was built with his gold mining profits. 

Although its construction was never finished, the castle is filled with hand-wrought iron and tile, custom-made furniture and extravagant antiques and tapestries. A highlight is the Chimes Tower, which contains a set of 25 carillon chimes that were set to play on the quarter-hour. The Scotts’ also had a 1,121-pipe theatre organ installed in their music room. Its melodies entertained their A-list house-guests—Betty Grable, Will Rogers and Norman Rockwell. Explore the castle in a one-hour ranger-led tour (underground tunnel tours offered from November to mid-April; less often in summer). Same-day tour tickets are sold at the Scotty's Castle Visitor Center. Reservations are available; be sure to call at least one day in advance.

No trip to Death Valley would be complete without a visit to Badwater, the lowest point in the North America, which tips the altimeters at 282 feet below sea level. Its vast expanse of salt flats and salty puddles were a terrible disappointment to thirsty emigrants who crossed this desert in the 1800s in search of a better life. The salty puddles—which can become large ponds following a big storm, are all that remain of a lake that was more than 600 feet deep hundreds of thousands of years ago. All that’s left now is a surreal tract of crunchy salt crystals. 

Just down the road from Badwater is the junction for Artist’s Drive, a scenic 9-mile road that shows off the colourful hues of the Amargosa Range’s sedimentary hills. If possible, time your visit here for late afternoon, when the artist’s multi-hued palette—pink, mauve, gold, green, lavender—is the most vivid. 

Nothing makes a better introduction to Death Valley than a visit to the 100-foot-high Mesquite Flat Sand Dunes. These aren't Death Valley’s tallest sand dunes (those are the Eureka Dunes, which require 4WD to reach)—but they are the most accessible. 

"The best time to visit is just before sunrise or around sunset because of the incredible show of color and light."

A walk on these silky, rippled dunes will convince you that you’re somewhere far from familiar. The dunes have no marked trail because of the continually shifting desert sands, so improvise: Make a beeline from the parking lot to the highest sandy ridge line. How far you wander is completely up to you. The best time to visit is just before sunrise or around sunset because of the incredible show of colour and light. Long shadows and soft light make fantastic dune photos. In the early morning, you can spot animal tracks made during the night, especially the tiny footprints of birds and rodents. Full-moon nights on the dunes are spectacular, but night visitors must watch for rattlesnakes, especially in hot months.

Every year, visitors underestimate how hot and dry Death Valley can be, no matter what time of year. Even short, easy walks to Mesquite Flat Dunes and Mosaic Canyon can be fatal if temperature soars above 38°C. Not only should you always carry plenty of water in your car and in your hiking pack, but you should also avoid exerting yourself during the hottest part of the day. Also, be sure your vehicle is in good mechanical condition and that your fuel tank is full before you begin each day's tour. Within the park, petrol is sold only at Furnace Creek, Panamint Springs Resort and Stovepipe Wells Village. Before setting out each day, check your tyres, check your petrol and check your water supply. And another thing to keep in mind: mobile phone coverage is either spotty or non-existent, so don’t depend on it to rescue you. Be prepared before you go.