This 1900 lodge offers snug lodgings in the southeast side of the park, with nice extras—massage services, guided trail rides, and a restaurant and friendly bar perfect for a post-hike beer, even if you’re not a guest. There’s an appealingly rustic feel to this remote location, with kerosene lamps lighting most of the lodge’s cabins, comfy wooden chairs plunked in front of perfect views, and trails fanning out in all directions. Rates include lodging and all meals—which are decidedly lux by backcountry standards: think grilled salmon or prime rib for dinner, and premium wines.
The ranch’s most coveted feature is its hot springs pool, known as Drake’s Bath. During the day the temperature is cooled to a comfortable level for swimming, but at night the naturally hot water creates a giant hot tub. (Insider tip: You can use the pool, even if you’re not an overnight guest; by making reservations for dinner that night.) Drakesbad is in the Warner Valley region of the park (accessed via the town of Chester). Ask ranch staff for directions to volcanic features like Devil’s Kitchen geothermal area, Boiling Springs Lake, and Terminal Geyser.