샌프란시스코 북쪽에서 한참을 들어간 작은 마을 포인트 레예스의 역(Point Reyes Station)에 있는 토비스 피드 반(Toby’s Feed Barn)의 야외에서도 파머스 마켓이 열립니다. 이곳에서는 밀짚 모자를 쓴 지역 주민들이 유쾌하게 이런 저런 소문을 서로 옮기고, 미국의 컨트리 음악인 블루그래스가 라이브로 연주됩니다. 유기농 농산물만 거래하는 이곳에는 몇 개 안 되는 판매대만 있을 정도로 소박한 모습을 보여주고 있습니다. 관광객들의 발걸음도 별로 많지 않은 이 작은 마을에서 열리는 파머스 마켓은 ‘양보다 질’이라는 교훈을 잘 보여줍니다. 마켓 뒷편에 GBD라고 쓴 하얀 깃발이 있는지 찾아 보세요. 이곳은 그릴 치즈 샌드위치 판매점으로 GBD는 Golden, Brown, Delicious를 각각 상징합니다. 실제로 여기서 판매되는 샌드위치는 포인트 레예스의 잘 알려지지 않았지만 놀랄 만큼 훌륭한 레스토랑 오스테리아 스텔리나(Osteria Stellina)에서 가져온 신선한 빵에 인근 카우걸 크리머리(Cowgirl Creamery)에서 가져온 치즈를 넣어 만듭니다. 건초 더미를 하나 찾아서 거기 앉아 그릴 치즈 샌드위치를 먹어보세요. 인근 포인트 레예스 국립 해안(Point Reyes National Seashore)까지 거뜬히 다녀올 수 있는 힘이 불끈 솟아나지 않을까요?
태평양을 향해 힘껏 뻗어 나온 서부 해안의 유일한 국립해안은 약 280제곱킬로미터(7만 에이커) 면적의 커다란 삼각형 반도 모양으로 펼쳐져 있어, 북부 캘리포니아 해안선과 마치 분리되어 있는 듯 보입니다. 샌프란시스코에서 북쪽으로 1시간 거리에 있는 포인트 라이스 국립해안의 해안 보호구역은 1,500여 종의 동식물을 해변, 산호초, 강어귀, 울창한 숲에 둘러싸인 호수 등 수중 유토피아에서 보호하고 있습니다. 이곳에서는 호젓한 해변으로 들이치는 파도, 해안 언덕 위를 쓸어 내리는 자욱한 안개, 해변 위에서 일광욕하는 코끼리 물범, 거친 초원을 돌아다니는 튤레 엘크를 만날 수 있습니다.
아름답고 푸르른 초원과 바다를 제대로 즐기려면 쌍안경과 등산화가 필수이며, 카약은 필수 물품은 아니지만 유용할 것입니다. 주요 관광안내센터가 소재한 베어 밸리에서 탐험을 시작하는 것이 좋으며 아이들도 이곳의 인터렉티브 디스플레이에 열광할 것입니다. 고래 관찰(일반적으로 1월 ~ 4월 중순까지 가능), 야생화 관찰(초봄 ~ 늦봄이 절정), 등산로 상태에 관한 새로운 정보를 확인해보세요. 이보다 작은 관광안내센터는 드레이크 해변과 포인트 라이스 등대에 마련되어 있습니다.
야생동물 관찰을 원하신다면 토말스 포인트로 가서 튤레 엘크를 만나보세요. 특히 가을 교미기에 관찰하기가 쉽습니다. 그 후 약 80만제곱미터(200에이커) 면적의 애보트 라군을 방문해 다양한 조류를 탐조해보세요(북아메리카에 사는 조류 중 45%를 포인트 라이스에서 관찰할 수 있습니다.) 해변을 산책하시려면 반려견 출입이 가능한 키호 해변이나 아이들에게 적합한 드레이크 해변을 거닐어보세요. 밀물 때가 되면 맥클루어 해변에서 조수 웅덩이를 탐험해보세요. 안개가 자욱한 날에는 베어 밸리로 가서 미송과 비숍 파인이 울창한 등산로를 따라 걸어 보세요. 태평양 고유의 장관을 만끽하시려면 308개 계단을 내려가 1870년 포인트 라이스 등대를 방문해보세요(물론, 다시 올라 오셔야 합니다). 그리고 마지막으로 현지에서 채취한 굴과 포인트 라이스나 인버네스 장인의 치즈로 만든 식사를 맛보고, 사람들과 어울릴 수 있는 에어비앤비나 시골 여관에서 휴식을 취하세요.
With more than 80 miles of Pacific shoreline, the Point Reyes peninsula features a diverse array of beaches for beachcombing, sunbathing, kayaking, kite flying, and bird-watching. Want to drive right up and plop down in the sand? Then head to Drakes Beach. Backed by tall cliffs, this sheltered cove provides refuge from Point Reyes’ blustery winds and safe swimming in the relatively calm waters of Drakes Bay. Look for the small memorial to Sir Francis Drake, who may have harbored his ship the Golden Hind here in 1579 while exploring the New World. A small visitor center and bookstore are open on weekends.
Nearby is Point Reyes Beach (also known as The Great Beach or Ten Mile Beach), which spans 11 captivating miles of sand and surf. You never know what you’ll find on a long walk here, but count on brayed-tan sand, wild waves, and unforgettable sunsets. (Access is at the parking lots for North Beach and South Beach.) Another great drive-up beach is Limantour, located about 20 minutes’ drive from Bear Valley Visitor Center. The mile-long beach is backed by low, grassy dunes, so it’s ideal for picnicking, even on windy days. There’s plenty of space for everybody, including Rover and Lassie—dogs are permitted on its southeast end.
If you’re willing to walk a bit, you’ll find seclusion at Point Reyes’ hike-in beaches, including dog-friendly Kehoe Beach on the peninsula’s northern tip. An easy, nearly level trail skirts alongside Kehoe Marsh, where songbirds flit, and pink and yellow mustard grows waist-high in the spring. Near the ocean, the marshy terrain morphs into giant sand dunes and sandstone cliffs. Farther north, near Pierce Point Ranch, is photogenic McClures Beach, set in a cove bookended by rugged cliffs. During low tides, head south to explore rocky tidepools teeming with sea life. At minus tides, a narrow passageway is revealed. Pass through this rock-lined gap to gain access to a secluded cove, connected to McClures by a narrow shelf of rock.
Outside Toby's Feed Barn in Point Reyes Station, it's all about homemade jam, local gossip, and live music every Saturday from June to October. The low-key, all-organic Point Reyes Farmers Market is smaller than many, but it's a prime example of how quality trumps quantity. Browse the booths featuring local oysters, grass-fed meats, artisan cheeses, home-grown sheep’s wool, olive oil, farm-fresh eggs, and picked-at-dawn vegetables.
After you’ve checked out all the offerings in the main space, look for a simple white banner in the back that says “GBD,” which stands for Golden, Brown, Delicious—three words that perfectly describe the incredible grilled cheese sandwiches made by Osteria Stellina. The secret recipe? Wood-fired Brickmaiden bread dipped in Straus Creamery butter and oozing Cowgirl Creamery cheese. Settle down on a hay bale and enjoy—this snack is perfect for fueling up before a hike in nearby Point Reyes National Seashore. But if you’re more into noshing than hiking, stroll downtown’s three or so blocks and you’ll find more culinary gold, like the crazy-good scones and muffins at Bovine Bakery and champagne-style honey mead at Heidrun Meadery.
Before you head to the market, be sure to check their calendar of events to see what will be going on. They host musicians playing everything from bluegrass to Brazilian jazz to Middle Eastern music weekly, and also welcome chefs and, in collaboration with Point Reyes Books, cookbook authors to take part in the Chef’s Booth series, where they can talk about their latest releases and lead a cooking demonstration with products featured at the market. (Alice Waters of Chez Panisse and French Laundry fame was an early participant.) Have kids? They’ll have a blast at the KidsZone, where there are crafts, a mini farm stand, and a play kitchen. Children must be accompanied by an adult.
If you’d like to have a knowledgeable guide unlock the secrets of Point Reyes’ foodie nirvana, ride along with the agricultural and culinary experts at West Marin Food & Farm Tours. Four- to five-hour tours offer insight into family farming and artisan food production and give you a backstage pass to see how cheese is made, oysters are farmed, and grass-fed animals are raised. Pick your flavor—the company offers an Oyster Lover’s Tour, Cheese Lover’s Tour, or the all-encompassing Flavors of West Marin Tour.
Perched on the windiest and foggiest point on the West Coast, the Point Reyes Lighthouse steered ships away from the peninsula’s treacherous northern point from 1870 to 1975, its glowing light visible for 24 nautical miles. At sunset each day for more than 100 years, the lightkeeper lit an oil lamp inside the first-order Fresnel lens, and 1,000 glass prisms directed the beam to the horizon.
Today the iconic Point Reyes Lighthouse beckons visitors to this isolated seaside promontory to get a glimpse of California’s nautical history and take in divine Pacific vistas. The lighthouse no longer operates—it’s been replaced by an automated light on the cliffs below—but it’s a fine place to snuggle up to your travel companion while you gaze wistfully out to sea. The breeze rarely ceases here, even on relatively balmy days. Forty-mile-per-hour winds are common, so dress appropriately.
From the parking lot, a short uphill walk leads to the Lighthouse Visitor Center and an observation deck where you can look down at jagged rock outcrops dotted with hundreds of seabirds—including a massive colony of common murres—crashing Pacific waves, and a remarkable 308-step staircase descending to the lighthouse. More than 30,000 gray whales pass by this spot on their annual migration from Alaska to Mexico, so stop at the visitor center to check the whiteboard for “Today’s Whale Count.” From December to April, it’s usually in the hundreds. Then walk down the stairs to explore the venerable lighthouse buildings. They are perched atop a rocky pinnacle, the Pacific’s gleaming surface spreading to the horizon, the tumultuous sea directly below.
Insider tip: The stairs to the lighthouse are open only 10 a.m.–4:30 p.m. Friday–Monday but the visitor center and observation deck are open seven days a week. On weekends and holidays from January to mid-April, the Park Service operates a mandatory shuttle bus to the lighthouse.
In Point Reyes, deer and tule elk roam the grasslands, sea lions and seals bask on the beaches, songbirds flit through the coastal chaparral, herons and egrets feast in the marshes, and gray whales cruise near the shoreline. It’s almost impossible not to see wild creatures on a visit here, but to maximize your chances, sign up for a small-group tour with Point Reyes Safaris, led by a professional photographer and naturalist. Or set out on your own to one of these wildlife-rich spots:
Tule elk at Tomales Point
Majestic tule elk—a subspecies of elk found only in California—roam throughout the peninsula. The 500-pound elk were once common, but by the 1870s they were nearly hunted out of existence. Today Point Reyes’ reestablished herd numbers more than 500 animals. When the bull elks are in their “rut” (typically July through September), you may hear the males bugling or sparring with a raucous clash of 40-pound antlers. Year-round, tule elk graze near the road leading to Pierce Point Ranch. If you don’t spot them from your car, try hiking the Tomales Point Trail.
Elephant seals at Chimney Rock
From December to March, more than 1,000 elephant seals take over the beaches and give birth to pups at Chimney Rock. Easily identified by their massive, blubbery size—male elephant seals can grow longer than 18 feet and weigh more than two tons—the seals recline on the beaches, brawl with their neighbors, and make awkward, jerking movements as they scooch from sand to sea and back. To see them, park at the Chimney Rock Trailhead, then walk down the paved road to the Elephant Seal Overlook. By late spring, the show is mostly over—although smaller numbers of seals can be seen in almost every month of the year.
Birding at Abbotts Lagoon
You can spot birds everywhere at Point Reyes, but for sheer diversity and easy viewing, head to the brackish waters of Abbotts Lagoon and its neighboring freshwater ponds. Follow the trail along its edge and you can easily spot western grebes, pie-billed grebes, coots, black-shouldered kites, and Caspian terns. The autumn migration season is the best time to build up your birder’s life list, but you’ll find interesting sightings here year-round.