Spotlight: Los Angeles

On Riverdale, TV’s fresh reimagining of the Archie comics universe, Madelaine Petsch stars as Cheryl Blossom, something of a complicated vixen. Is she good? Is she bad? In her real life, Petsch plays it right down the middle. “There’s not just one way to be,” says the actress who grew up in Washington state but moved to Los Angeles for her role in Riverdale, following her big break in a Coke commercial. The fair-skinned Petsch says she has upped her use of sunscreen since relocating from the Pacific Northwest, but has otherwise embraced the local culture—from California malls to a never-ending pursuit of the perfect road trip soundtrack. The actress shares with us some of her other California favorites.

Where do you live? West Hollywood

Why there? Because of the hills. And there’s not a big-city hustle and bustle (vibe)+ I hear birds! There’s this wonderful thing about L.A., where you go one street over and there’s a completely different vibe.

Who or what is your greatest California love? For me, it’s the weather. I do not like the super-super heat. That’s not my vibe at all. I’m too pale to go (out into) the sun. The weather here is ever-changing.

What is the biggest misperception about Californians? Before I moved here, I was super-nervous. I kept hearing about “L.A. people.” Weird, stuck up, lots of attitude, not welcoming to new people. But that’s not been my experience. The city has been very welcoming. And it was always taught to me that if you live here for more than five years, you’re a native. It’s been six years now. I’m officially a local!

What is the stereotype that most holds true? That you’ll never leave the west side if you live there. Specifically, Venice Beach. There’s just something about it out there that’s captivating. That’s what they say. So I can’t live in Venice or I’ll get stuck there.

What is your favorite Golden State splurge? I love a good day when the sun is out, it’s not too hot, and there’s a breeze. And then, I know this is super basic, but going shopping at The Grove. I love the Americana of a mall. I also love hitting the small stores in Santa Monica.

Time for a road trip—where are you going? The last road trip I took was to drive up to San Francisco. It was so gorgeous. We took the PCH (Pacific Coast Highway) all the way up, along the water, and we drove straight, all in one go. My favorite band at the time was playing—Two Door Cinema Club.

If you could decree an official state culinary experience, what would it be? I’m a vegan, so there’s only so many places I can recommend. But for me, it’s the restaurant Sage. They have three locations in Los Angeles. Oh, and get the potato broccoli perogies. Mmmm! It’s so good.

How do you define California style? California is the only place I’ve lived where everyone fits in. So I stick to my own style. There’s not just one way to be. But that’s what I like about it here. All the different styles mix together. One thing for sure: I always hide from the sun, so I don’t get sunburned.

Best California song? "Beaches” by Tokyo Police Club. The first time I heard it, I was on the beach, finishing a shoot. I pressed shuffle on my Spotify and that song came on. I listened to it the whole way home. And this is true: Any song that’s good driving music is a California song.

How would your California dream day unfold? I love a nice, lazy morning. So I’d order in breakfast. Then I’d drive over to Santa Monica. Get a coffee. Oh! And spend the night over there. I love the bungalows at the Fairmont Miramar—that’s where my favorite coffee shop is, right by there. I don’t ever want to go out at night. I like my California days. I may even go to Griffith Observatory for a hike.

When it comes to hitting the beaches of Los Angeles, many first-timers head straight to Santa Monica or Venice. But for those who want a more laid-back vibe, Manhattan Beach is the perfect coastal enclave.

Situated conveniently close to LAX in L.A.’s South Bay region, Manhattan Beach’s biggest draw is, of course, the beach. The sand and surf here are the real deal, and the scene can sometimes look straight out of an updated version of Baywatch. The ultra-smooth sand is perpetually dotted with volleyball nets and is home to the annual Manhattan Beach Open, the pro beach volleyball summer tournament. And, of course, it’s a hot spot for surfing. The International Surf Festival is also a big draw to MB (as the locals call it) every summer. 

The Manhattan Beach Pier, where Manhattan Beach Boulevard meets the Pacific, offers a relaxing stroll with breathtaking views of L.A.’s most expensive beachside homes and the scenic Palos Verdes Peninsula to the south. Winners of past Manhattan Beach Opens are commemorated along the 928-foot pier, and the end houses the quaint, free Roundhouse Aquarium. Inside, there are viewing pools and touch tanks for close encounters with starfish and other invertebrates. Fun fact: Roundhouse was the location of the surf shop where Keanu Reeves’ character in Point Break bought his surfboard. 

Along the beach is a nicely paved path known as The Strand, popular with cyclists, runners, and casual walkers taking in the idyllic scenery. Hermosa Beach is just a couple of miles south and makes for a good scenic route.

Further inland, Downtown Manhattan Beach is the bustling center of the city, loaded with high-end boutiques, retailers, hotels, bars, and many popular casual and fine-dining restaurants. The Strand House offers unparalleled ocean views along with its top-rated farm-to-table and specialty cocktail menus. M.B. Post has a Michelin-starred chef. There are also plenty of low-key spots like the open-air pub Simmzy’s, perfect for a quick bite after spending the day shopping or surfing. Among the many accommodations is Shade Manhattan Beach, a sustainability-minded luxury hotel with a rooftop pool that plants a tree for every guest who forgoes housekeeping during their stay. 

Insider tips: Check the Downtown Manhattan Beach events calendar for upcoming farmers markets, live music, and events. If you’re visiting by car, you can look up parking lots in advance; there are also over 300 metered spots around the city.

Often described as the “Brooklyn of Los Angeles,” Silver Lake is much more than just a hipster haven. The popular central L.A. neighborhood has gone from urban grit to sophisticated chic over the years and is home to celebrities, creatives, professionals, and an ever-increasing number of families. Silver Lake is diverse, eclectic, and above all, authentic. It offers some of the best of L.A. living, with close proximity to Hollywood and Downtown L.A., and incredible hilltop views, independent boutique shopping, and an increasingly popular dining scene.

One of the neighborhood’s most famous features is its massive namesake body of water, Silver Lake Reservoir, which offers a popular 2.25-mile loop for runners and walkers. Grab a cold brew at neighborhood staple Lamill Coffee down the street and take in the views of the res and the San Gabriel Mountains in the distance. After your reservoir stroll, head back down the street to catch happy hour at L&E Oyster Bar’s bright, airy upstairs patio or make your dinner reservations at the foodie-favorite Italian bistro, Alimento. Later, catch a rock show at the ’hood’s mainstay indie venue, The Satellite.

The main hub of Silver Lake is Sunset Junction, a bustling, walkable strip along Sunset Boulevard with dozens of trendy shops such as boho chic Mohawk General Store, clothing and home goods shop The Odells, and the neighborhood's favorite bar-stocking shop, Bar Keeper, which specializes in vintage barware and local and small-batch spirits.

If all the shopping and people-watching tires you out, there are plenty of places to refuel. For your caffeine fix, take your pick among Intelligentsia (known equally for its pour-over and people-watching), La Colombe, Alfred [“but first”] Coffee, or MatchaBar.

If java’s not enough, there are several hot restaurants dotted along Sunset Boulevard, including spicy Thai favorite Night + Market Song, insanely popular Silverlake Ramen (which opened a separate location just for takeout), and neighbors Sawyer and Kettle Black.

After you’ve pepped up, hit some of Silver Lake’s famous secret stairs, which are more hidden than secret (and there’s an app for that). These historic steps once played a major role in how residents got from their steep hillside homes to the main streets to take public transportation, proof that Los Angeles wasn’t always car-dependent. These days, the majority of the steps are used by locals for fitness and by visitors for photo ops, since many of them, including the Micheltorena Stairs (3400 Sunset Boulevard) and the Swan Stairs (Westerly Terrace and Swan Place), are vibrantly painted.

Clare V.

Since launching her handbags and accessories line in 2008, accessories designer Clare Vivier has mastered the delicate combination of Parisian chic, American prep, and California cool. While her brand has spread to seven boutiques across California and New York, her flagship shop in Silverlake may best personify her brand. Two walls of windows let the California sun stream in each morning and afternoon, and shadowboxes designed by local architect Barbara Bestor hold the goods that lure passersby along Sunset Boulevard. Technicolor best sellers such as the La Tropezienne, Simple Tote, and coveted Foldover Clutches may sit on copies of the most recent Paris Review or Louis Vuitton City Guides, which are also for sale. Everything in the well-rounded space has a connection to France, Los Angeles, or Vivier herself. The shop stocks jewelry by her friends Annie Costello Brown and Grace Lee, for example, along with French Veja sneakers and candles from West Hollywood’s iconic Chateau Marmont. Pro tip: Head here for a last-minute gift—clutches and other leather items can be monogrammed on the spot.

The Platform

A sense of discovery pervades at this innovative, open-air retail development in Culver City, which opened in 2016. Six buildings house first-to-market concept shops, pop-ups, and creative company headquarters. The place is constantly evolving, with a stylish lineup of businesses stepping in temporarily (St. Frank housewares, Charlotte Stone shoes) or permanently (Bird Brooklyn's first West Coast outpost, Magasin men’s boutique, design shop Poketo). Be sure to hit some Southern California favorites, including The Edit by Freda Salvador and Janessa Leone, for shoes and hats, and Reservoir L.A. for an impeccable edit of local fashion brands. You’ll also find great iced coffee at Blue Bottle, acai bowls at São Acai, and tacos at the unmissable Loqui. Studded with cacti and succulents, as well as hanging chairs, the outdoor areas encourage leisurely shopping breaks. Keep an eye on the Platform’s schedule of events for outdoor concerts, film screenings, and food festivals. Pro tip: Put aside 35 minutes for an Aesop Express Facial at the cult Aussie beauty shop—it’s one of only four of the brand’s shops worldwide that offers them.

Esqueleto

This highly curated yet laid-back Echo Park art gallery and shop is where the desert meets the sea, and independent LA and international artists are celebrated for their unique individuality. Near Dodger Stadium, this shop is the second California outpost from Oakland jewelry designer Lauren Wolf. Here, in the sun-soaked showroom, techniques and materials vary, but one common theme marries every object: They’re all handcrafted. A natural and organic aesthetic pervades, and the stock includes decorative objects, custom jewelry, art, and ceramics. Vintage Moroccan kilim rugs top exposed concrete floors, and large cacti are scattered about. The soundtrack: old, rare cuts; high-school marching band covers of contemporary hits, and DJ mixes by Chances with Wolves. Wolf’s eponymous line (she’s best known for one-of-a-kind engagement rings) leads the gallery-wide charge on sustainability: diamonds are certified conflict-free, and metals are recycled. The sales staff is as creative as its artisans, and personalized, no-pressure service is a signature (no appointment needed). Pro tip: Keep an eye on the shop's Instagram feed for lively art openings every two months, and frequent trunk shows. When seeking a distinctive gift, visit Esqueleto first: Its wonders include 10,000-year-old megalodon teeth from a South Carolina riverbed. It doesn’t get cooler than this.

Fred Segal

The name Fred Segal—and especially the logo—encapsulates L.A. style. Since the early 1960s, it’s been where Angelenos shop for their denim-heavy wardrobes and, in more recent history, where such trendsetting SoCal brands as Juicy Couture, J Brand, and True Religion got their start. These classics and many others line the walls of the iconic Melrose shop, but the 2017 opening of a 13,000-square-foot retail space on Sunset Boulevard started a new chapter. Along with its core seasonal collections, the shop holds 10 brand-specific shops-within-shops, along with pop-ups that change from day to day. The result is a space that feels like a high-fashion bazaar. Channel your inner treasure hunter and dig in for a long while—you’ll be rewarded with finds from AMO Denim, Seeker, Hartel, Levi’s, Marie Veronique, CAP Beauty, and Dita Eyewear. The whole selection is carefully curated to give shoppers something unique, whether it’s a vintage Comme des Garçons piece or an entire collection straight from Libertine’s runway. Must-do: Grab a coffee at Fred Segal Café by Tartine (which is so appealing for lunch that it causes an uptick in shoppers around noon each day) and snap a photo in the living room swing, with the entirety of downtown as your backdrop.

Just One Eye

This shop took over one of Los Angeles’s most iconic buildings when it opened in 2012—the art deco–styled former headquarters of business magnate Howard Hughes. But Just One Eye’s pioneering founder, Paola Russo, has managed to put her own original stamp on the space. The luxury concept store is arranged like a gallery, showcasing rare and one-of-a-kind editions of clothing, jewelry, vintage furniture, and contemporary works by such artists as Takashi Murakami. Finds range from crocodile backpacks designed in collaboration with the Row and artist Damien Hirst to a survival kit created with input from the Navy Seals. Over the years, Just One Eye has grown and evolved with shops-in-shops. Installations may feature gowns by Alexandre Vauthier—French haute couture designs sold since the store’s beginning—or Daniela Villegas’s playful jewelry inspired by nature. Somehow both intimate and grand, the eclectic boutique is decidedly gallery-like, but approachable, too. Knowledgeable staff act almost as docents, guiding customers one-on-one and offering them coffee. Insiders’ tip: Valet parking is complimentary, helping to assuage any guilt over splurging on that Gucci bag.

In Partnership with Afar.

Hip and historic, Downtown Los Angeles (or simply DTLA) offers big-city excitement with trendy restaurants, cultural attractions, budget-friendly shopping, and major-league sports. Easily accessible by Metro and perhaps one of the most pedestrian-friendly urban neighborhoods in Los Angeles, DTLA is being transformed by a multitude of cultural offerings such as regular art walks and street festivals, as well as innovative businesses that include indoor/outdoor markets, hip boutiques, and pop-ups. An influx of new residents has helped energize the area, and Downtown L.A.’s re-emergence is also being driven by such attractions as Grand Park, an urban oasis with views stretching from the Music Center (including Walt Disney Concert Hall) to City Hall.

Start your food exploration at the reinvented Grand Central Market, originally opened in 1917, which has a bevy of artisanal food purveyors selling of-the-moment items (Belcampo grass-fed beef burgers, build-your-own ice-cream sandwiches at McConnell’s Fine Ice Cream) next to longtime vendors, like Wexler’s Deli.

Across the street, the legendary funicular Angels Flight offers riders a chance to travel up and down the hillside in old-school train cars named Sinai and Olivet—updated versions of the 1901 originals. The narrow-gauge, funicular railway became a familiar sight in classic noir films, like 1952’s The Turning Point, M (1951), and Kiss Me Deadly (1955), and later in 2016’s award-winning La La Land when the couple played by Ryan Gosling and Emma Stone ride up after eating across the street at Grand Central Market. You can ride the furnicular for $1 one way. 

There are plenty of places to experience the health-centered food scene in L.A. as well. Zinc Cafe & Market, which accommodates anyone with dietary restrictions, offers seating inside their window-filled dining room or in the sunny courtyard. Grab a craft cocktail at Zinc’s latest addition, Bar Mateo, housed in a 1914 barn that sits inside an olive grove. Round out your dining excursion at Little Damage, a soft-serve ice-cream spot offering black (charcoal) ice cream and unique flavors such as Unicorn Tears or Fresas Con Crema (don’t miss the photo booth!).

The Arts District of DTLA is thriving, with museums, galleries, and cultural attractions galore (explore an interactive map here). Don’t miss The Broad, the honeycomb-facade museum that houses 2,000 pieces of modern art by artists such as Andy Warhol and Roy Lichtenstein. Recently relocated from Santa Monica, the Institute of Contemporary Art, Los Angeles features colorful and provocative exhibits, often from lesser-known but truly inspired international artists. Regular events offer one-of-a-kind opportunities to learn about the history of famous painted signs you can spot in L.A. Stroll the Arts District Co-Op, a warehouse-turned-small-business emporium with vendors selling handmade jewelry, screen-printed T-shirts, vintage denim, and drag queen-inspired looks straight from RuPaul’s runway, or browse the crazy cool wall displays and a labyrinth of books at The Last Bookstore.

Events, nightlife, and live music give DTLA an energetic vibe. Crowds flock to the sports and entertainment combo of Staples Center and Microsoft Theater L.A. LIVE, where you can also see music artifacts (Elvis’s sheet music, Michael Jackson’s glove) at the Grammy Museum. And Grand Avenue, true to its name, is the city’s cultural hub, thanks to the Los Angeles Philharmonic performances at the spectacular Walt Disney Concert Hall and the sandstone-clad Museum of Contemporary Art (MOCA).

There’s no shortage of places to stay in the area, too, including classic properties and trendy boutique hotels created inside transformed vintage buildings. The ornate 1927 United Artists building is now home to the stylish Ace Hotel Downtown Los Angeles; while The Standard, Downtown LA was originally the headquarters of Superior Oil.

Want to see DTLA (and the surrounding areas) from above? Head up 1,000 feet to OUE Skyspace at the top of the U.S. Bank Tower. Soak up the panoramic views of the city from the observation terrace or try plunging down the outdoor all-glass, see-through Skyslide. There’s also a digital interactive area with a topography wall of L.A.—a cool way to learn about the city’s landmarks and history.

For a must-see look at the creative and business sides of making music, plan a visit to this outstanding, often-overlooked museum, part of downtown’s L.A. Live complex. Ultra-hands-on exhibits make this a great place for families, especially if you’ve got older kids who are into music. The museum lets them make their air-guitar fantasies come true on real instruments, or they can mix their own tunes in sound booths, just like a music producer or sound engineer. Historic recordings and videos let you relive your youth, too (Woodstock, anyone?), learn the roots of dozens of musical genres, or just tune in to some classic Ella Fitzgerald or Billie Holliday. Another enlightening exhibit lets you listen to the same recording produced using different mediums through the years, including gramophones, vinyl records, eight-track tapes (remember those?), and MP3 players, the norm for today’s music. Also enjoy the huge collection of memorabilia and clothing ranging from Elvis’s personal fan notes to Michael Jackson’s bedazzled gloves and the jacket from his Thriller video.

Nwaka Onwusa, associate curator of the GRAMMY Museum, says that she’s most proud of “the diversity of content that is displayed in the museum…a reflection of revolutionary music and musicians.” Another hidden gem in the museum is the 200-seat, state-of-the-art Clive Davis Theater, which hosts live concerts by top artists, and talks with famous producers and others in the music business. It’s a great way to get insights and see major performers like Taylor Swift, The Cult, and Annie Lennox in an intimate performance space. (Check calendar well in advance as big names sell out fast.)

The sun sliding below the western horizon, a blanket of city lights spread out at your feet, the Hollywood Sign glowing from its hillside perch—these are memorable sights from any vantage point, but there’s nothing quite like taking them in from a rooftop in the middle of Los Angeles. One of the best things about L.A. is the weather, and sunny days offer an extra bonus: warm evenings and nights. So relaxing outside, perhaps on cushy banquettes around a swimming pool glowing with cool blue light—well, it doesn’t get much sexier than that.

For a sultry, see-and-be-seen experience, head to E.P & L.P. This West Hollywood spot is part swanky Asian restaurant (E.P) and part rooftop club (L.P.). Rub shoulders with the stars as you sip a spiked boba tea and gaze out at the glimmering Hollywood Hills. Those preferring a lower profile should retreat to the nearby Rooftop at the Palihouse. Lush greenery, stylish chairs, and chic lanterns complement 360-degree views and hibiscus cocktails. For a brush with the super exclusive, book a room at WeHo’s Petit Ermitage. Open only to hotel guests, the rooftop is pure magic with its saltwater pool, seasonal cocktails, and a butterfly garden so legit it’s recognized as a sanctuary by the National Wildlife Federation.

Another excellent option is The Roof on Wilshire, above the Hotel Wilshire in the heart of Downtown. Relax on wraparound banquettes to watch the skyline light up, and sip on one of the bar’s signature mule-style drinks until the stars come out. Also in the Downtown neighborhood is Upstairs Bar at the Ace Hotel, with tropical drinks and views of the towering San Gabriel Mountains. A new addition to DTLA, The Rooftop at The Nomad serves tiki cocktails and inspired ice-cream sandwiches on the terracotta deck, which is dotted with lemon trees. Just a few blocks away is the literal pinnacle of the city’s nightlife: Spire 73, which sits atop the Intercontinental Hotel and is the highest outdoor bar in the Western Hemisphere. If you want a wacky and unforgettable night, try to nab one of the spaceship-like waterbed pods alongside the pool at The Rooftop at The Standard, Downtown LA. Or head to The Fonda Theatre, where rooftop guests can watch a live feed of the night’s performance.