Where to Go Now in Downtown Los Angeles
The Museum of Contemporary Art
Founded in 1979, the mission of this institution is clear—it’s committed to preserving, presenting, and interpreting art created after 1940. Its methods, however, are ever changing. Three distinct venues in the city shine a spotlight on forward-thinking artists of the 20th and 21st centuries. Start at the Grand Avenue location, arriving right at the 11 a.m. opening for a chance to contemplate Mark Rothko’s emotional color studies in peace. After exploring work by such artists as Robert Rauschenberg, Joan Miró, and Nijideka Akunyili Crosby (who created the mural that wraps around the building), grab lunch from Lemonade café to enjoy in the Sculpture Plaza. One mile away, the same general admission ticket gets you entry to the Geffen Contemporary at MOCA, which opened in Little Tokyo in 1983 after a renovation of a former police car warehouse by Frank Gehry; today, it hosts the museum’s more experimental exhibits. Architecture aficionados should also visit the third location, the MOCA Pacific Design Center, about 10 miles away in West Hollywood. (A fourth MOCA location, called Double Negative, requires much more of a detour—it’s a work of land art by Michael Heizer in the middle of the Nevada desert.) Art talks, screenings, and live music alongside food trucks make MOCA Grand and Geffen as much social venues as they are cultural ones. Pro tip: For an in-depth look at the collections, book the completely customizable educator-led tour (request a couple weeks ahead). For a livelier experience, visit on a Thursday from 5 to 8 p.m., when admission is free.
This rooftop bar has a refreshingly inclusive, come-as-you-are vibe. There’s no list at the door, no doorman sizing you up for anything beyond ensuring you’re of legal drinking age. For the prized sunset hour, arrive early—especially during summer—and grab a vintage table or booth by the pool with colorful mismatching chairs and tablecloths. Later in the evening, a bar stool is the place to be, watching the action and joining in when singalong-ready funk and disco tunes start playing. The overgrown garden that tops the circa 1924 Commercial Exchange building makes for a magical setting, softening the cityscape beyond. Atmosphere aside, the cocktails are what bring people here; masterminds Gabs Orta and Elad Zvi—who first started Broken Shaker as a pop-up in Miami—are known worldwide for their creative approach. It’s tempting to order drinks based on their clever names alone—not the worst idea—but be sure to try the O-Fish-Ally Open, with such radical flavors as miso and absinthe and topped with a nest of nori.
When it opened in 2015, this museum drew headlines for its extensive contemporary art collection and Diller Scofidio + Renfro–designed building, which resembles a futuristic honeycomb. Then a single exhibition catapulted it into fame: artist Yayoi Kusama’s installation of thousands of twinkling LED lights called Infinity Mirrored Room—The Souls of Millions of Light Years Away. (The artist’s follow-up, Longing for Eternity, opened in 2017.) There’s plenty to be dazzled by in this museum founded by philanthropists Eli and Edythe Broad. Hundreds of skylights illuminate the column-free third floor’s permanent galleries—featuring the Broads’ considerable collection of pieces by Kara Walker, Barbara Kruger, Jasper Johns, and Jean-Michel Basquiat. Insiders know to visit on weekdays for the most relaxed experience or around major holidays and occasions such as Halloween and International Women’s Day for engaging and sometimes provocative tours. Pro tip: Though general admission tickets are free, it’s wise to book tickets online ahead when they’re released on the first of each month for the following month, especially if you’re taking a date or going with a group (the same goes for Kusama’s rooms). At least two weeks out, request a before- or after-hours guided group tour of one hour, not including the Infinity Mirrored Room. And make sure to also book reservations at Otium, the trendsetting restaurant by Chef Timothy Hollingsworth located next to the Broad.
A good cocktail can cure almost anything that ails you—at least that’s the philosophy at Apothéke, the West Coast outpost of the award-winning New York City bar. In keeping with the playful apothecary theme, barmen don white lab coats and serve drinks that are categorized on the menu as stimulants, pain killers, stress relievers, and aphrodisiacs. If you feel a headache coming on, the prescription may be the Catcher in the Rye, made with rye whiskey and chamomile bitters. After a day of battling traffic, try the Dizzying Intellect, a bright combination of gin, jicama, cumin- and caraway-flavored Kümmel, and lime, topped with spruce beer bitters. Ingredients are all house-made, -muddled, or -infused, from charcoal-infused vodka to tequila tinted green from the addition of spirulina and eucalyptus. Decor plays into the old-fashioned apothecary theme. Everything centers around the glowing and generous pink marble bar, both inside and out, and the deck offers intimate nooks with Biedermeier wicker sofas. A D.J. spins a sultry, sophisticated selection nightly, keeping the mood relaxed. Pro tip: Make reservations ahead for weekends. Don’t miss the gratis “amuse” shot, made daily to prime, or cleanse, your palate.
In partnership with Afar.
Spotlight: Los Angeles
Welcome to the bright lights and big-city allure of California’s largest city. Here, A-list celebrities really do walk the pavements, triple-shot machiatos in one hand, mobile phones in the other. While travellers may bypass much of the city by staying on a network of motorways that crisscross the region, they’re missing L.A.’s hidden gems. Turn off onto side streets to discover inviting neighbourhoods, incredible museums, and shopping hot spots. And when the sun sets, L.A. comes to life in a whole new way, with clubs thumping to the beat of the latest indie band, a flock of starlets swaying in the front row. Rooftop restaurants, bars, and pools draw slinky-sexy crowds, while searchlights arc through the night sky, announcing the latest silver-screen premiere.
Hip and historic, downtown Los Angeles (or simply DTLA) offers big-city excitement with restaurants, cultural attractions and major league sports. An influx of new residents has helped energise the area, and downtown's re-emergence has also been spurred by such attractions as Grand Park, an urban oasis with views stretching from the Music Center (including Walt Disney Concert Hall) to City Hall.
Start your exploration with a full stomach. The reinvented Grand Central Market, originally opened in 1917, now has artisanal food purveyors selling of-the-moment items (Belcampo grass-fed beef burgers, build-your-own ice cream sandwiches at McConnell’s Fine Ice Creams) next to long-time vendors, like Wexler’s Deli. Vintage buildings have also been transformed, including the ornate 1927 United Artists building on Broadway, where the Ace Hotel Downtown Los Angeles offers stylish digs and a restaurant. Crowds flock to the sports and entertainment combo of Staples Center and LA LIVE, where you can also see music artefacts (Elvis’s sheet music, Michael’s glove) at the Grammy Museum and catch concerts at the Nokia Theatre. And Grand Avenue is the city’s cultural hub, thanks to Los Angeles Philharmonic performances at spectacular Walt Disney Concert Hall and the sandstone-clad Museum of Contemporary Art (MOCA).
Tinseltown, where starlets are discovered on every street corner (or at least we like to think they are), and the tinted windows of that stretch...
When it comes to hitting the beaches of Los Angeles, many first-timers head straight to Santa Monica or Venice. But for those who want a more laid-back vibe, Manhattan Beach is the perfect coastal enclave.
Situated conveniently close to LAX in L.A.’s South Bay region, Manhattan Beach’s biggest draw is, of course, the beach. The sand and surf here are the real deal, and the scene can sometimes look straight out of an updated version of Baywatch. The ultra-smooth sand is perpetually dotted with volleyball nets and is home to the annual Manhattan Beach Open, the pro beach volleyball summer tournament. And, of course, it’s a hot spot for surfing. The International Surf Festival is also a big draw to MB (as the locals call it) every summer.
The Manhattan Beach Pier, where Manhattan Beach Boulevard meets the Pacific, offers a relaxing stroll with breathtaking views of L.A.’s most expensive beachside homes and the scenic Palos Verdes Peninsula to the south. Winners of past Manhattan Beach Opens are commemorated along the 928-foot pier, and the end houses the quaint, free Roundhouse Aquarium. Inside, there are viewing pools and touch tanks for close encounters with starfish and other invertebrates. Fun fact: Roundhouse was the location of the surf shop where Keanu Reeves’ character in Point Break bought his surfboard.
Along the beach is a nicely paved path known as The Strand, popular with cyclists, runners, and casual walkers taking in the idyllic scenery. Hermosa Beach is just a couple of miles south and makes for a good scenic route.
Further inland, Downtown Manhattan Beach is the bustling centre of the city, loaded with high-end boutiques, retailers, hotels, bars, and many popular casual and fine-dining restaurants. The Strand House offers unparalleled ocean views along with its top rated farm-to-table and specialty cocktail menus. M.B. Post has a Michelin-starred chef. There are also plenty of low-key spots like the open-air pub Simmzy’s, perfect for a quick bite after spending the day shopping or surfing. Among the many accommodations is Shade Manhattan Beach, a sustainability-minded luxury hotel with a rooftop pool that plants a tree for every guest who forgoes housekeeping during their stay.
Insider tips: Check the Downtown Manhattan Beach events calendar for upcoming farmers markets, live music, and events. If you’re visiting by car, you can look up car parks in advance; there are also over 300 metered spots around the city.
Here’s a film festival with an entertaining twist—it has music videos too. This long-running week-long event, presented at downtown’s Nokia Theatre/L.A. LIVE complex, includes a diverse mix of...
Although it’s known as the birthplace of Los Angeles, Olvera Street actually dates back to 1930 when it was established to celebrate the city’s Mexican heritage. With its narrow passages and 19th century buildings housing traditional restaurants and folk art shops, Olvera Street certainly evokes the romance of an authentic mercado. Technically, it’s part of El Pueblo de Los Angeles Historical Monument, which includes many of the city’s oldest buildings and an 1815 plaza. Mariachis strum their big guitars and the aroma of fresh tortillas and hot churros fill the air. On holidays, like Dia de los Muertos (‘Day of the Dead’ in Spanish—much more festive than it sounds) in the autumn or Las Posadas, nine nights of candlelight processions at Christmastime, Olvera Street truly shines. Docents offer tours of the monument, and you can also see a partially restored mural by leading Mexican artist David Alfaro Siqueiros at Olvera Street’s América Tropical Interpretive Center.
Whether you bang your head to rock and roll, groove out to classic jazz, or crank up the hip-hop in your car, the National Academy of Recording Arts and Science’s...
In Beverly Hills, ritzy Rodeo Drive is a must (even if it's just for window-shopping), with to-die-for boutiques like Prada, YSL and Versace. In-the-know shoppers also head to nearby Beverly and Canon Drives, with beautiful shops and some of the best celebrity spotting in California. Head for The Grove nearby, a luxurious outdoor shopping entertainment centre, where you can eat, shop, then catch a film or stroll to the adjacent Original Farmers Market—a great spot for food-oriented shopping.
In the LGBT enclave of West Hollywood, discover trendy boutiques like Balenciaga, Christian Louboutin and Stella McCartney, as well as nightclubs and notice-me street-side cafés, all popular with celebrities. Also visit L.A.’s Silver Lake neighbourhood, with appealing shops like Yolk or Hemingway and Pickett. If you’re an adventurous shopper, head for the L.A. Fashion District and Santee Alley, with more than 150 shops and street vendors selling almost everything imaginable—a great place to scour for bargain clothes. L.A.’s Citadel Outlet Shopping Centre has deals on big names like Calvin Klein and Michael Kors.
Dining in Los Angeles
As the megawatt star when it comes to celebrities, L.A. naturally attracts chefs who want to make a big splash too. Well-known names like Wolfgang Puck, whose legendary Spago in Beverly Hills still attracts A-listers, offer amazing, innovative dishes, often in equally spectacular settings, even rooftops. Market-driven menus, focusing on California’s super fresh ingredients, are the norm at places like Chef Ben Ford’s airy downtown eatery, Ford’s Filling Station and ultra-fancy Patina, the Walt Disney Concert Hall’s star restaurant, where chef Joachim Splichal creates gastronomic showstoppers, like his signature Seasonal Glazed Vegetable Mosaic.
For all the dress-up options and celebrity chefs dotting the city, the international city of Los Angeles also offers awesome places to get authentic, reasonably priced ethnic food, especially in tucked away neighborhoods. Try incredible do-it-yourself barbecue at Kang Hodong Baekjeong in Koreatown. Dig into perfect ramen at Tsujita in Little Tokyo. Or order the green corn tamales, a local favorite, at El Cholo, an L.A. tradition since 1923.
Shopping is an art form in California. Whether you are in search of the perfect cocktail dress or an authentic Mexican piñata, you will find it here. Want to sample fresh fruits and...
Spotlight: Santa Monica
LA’s Rooftop Retreats
The sun dipping below the western horizon, a blanket of city lights spread out at your feet, the Hollywood Sign glowing from its hillside perch, these are memorable sights from any vantage point, but there’s nothing quite like taking them in from a rooftop in the middle of Los Angeles. One of the best things about LA is the weather, and sunny days offer an extra bonus: warm evenings and nights. So relaxing outside, perhaps on cushy banquettes around a swimming pool glowing with cool blue light—well, it doesn’t get much sexier than that.
For a sultry, see-and-be-seen experience, head to E.P & L.P. This West Hollywood spot is part swanky Asian restaurant (E.P) and part rooftop club (L.P). Rub shoulders with the stars as you sip an alcoholic boba tea and gaze out at the glimmering Hollywood Hills. Those preferring a lower profile should retreat to the nearby Rooftop at the Palihouse. Lush greenery, stylish chairs and chic lanterns complement 360-degree views and hibiscus cocktails. For a brush with the super exclusive, book a room at WeHo’s Petit Ermitage. Open only to hotel guests, the rooftop is pure magic with its saltwater pool, seasonal cocktails and a butterfly garden so well done that it’s recognised as a sanctuary by the National Wildlife Federation.
Another excellent option is The Roof on Wilshire, above the Hotel Wilshire in the heart of Downtown. Relax on wraparound banquettes to watch the skyline light up, and sip on one of the bar’s signature mule-style drinks until the stars come out. Also in the Downtown area is Upstairs Bar at the Ace Hotel, with tropical drinks and views of the towering San Gabriel Mountains. A new addition to DTLA, The Rooftop at The Nomad serves tiki cocktails and inspired ice-cream sandwiches on its terracotta deck, which is dotted with lemon trees. Just a few streets away is the literal pinnacle of the city’s nightlife: Spire 73, which sits atop the Intercontinental Hotel and is the highest outdoor bar in the Western Hemisphere. If you want a wacky and unforgettable night, try to nab one of the spaceship-like waterbed pods alongside the pool at The Rooftop at The Standard, Downtown LA. Or head to The Fonda Theatre, where rooftop guests can watch a live feed of the night’s performance.
Spotlight: The Getty Center
The Getty Center is not just for art lovers. Perched in the hills above West Los Angeles, the main...
Walt Disney Concert Hall
With its soaring stainless-steel panels, the exterior of Frank Gehry-designed Walt Disney Concert Hall has been likened to everything from a clipper ship to a flower in bloom to origami. Some people say the experience of hearing a performance in its main hall wrapped by undulating walls and billowing ceilings made of Douglas fir, is like being inside a cello or violin. That means performances by the resident Los Angeles Philharmonic, as well as a calendar-full of other outstanding musicians, are sensory feasts for not just the ears but the eyes too, with features including the striking central organ, nicknamed the ‘French fries.’ Outside, take a self-guided or guided tour, including a stop at the third-level garden for city views and the rose-shaped Lillian Disney Fountain, made from crushed Delft porcelain and a meant as a tribute to the woman who made the concert hall possible.
Is that who I think it is? In California, the answer is probably yes. Here, stars and celebrities live, work and play. Look around on a sunny SoCal beach and you might see Matthew McConaughey...
Spotlight: Griffith Park
What began as one couple’s small collection of postwar and contemporary art is now a treasure trove of more than 2,000 pieces, housed in an architectural stunner in downtown Los Angeles.
Eli and Edythe Broad (rhymes with “road”) have been involved in the Los Angeles art community since they arrived here in 1963. Eli—the founding chairman of the Museum of Contemporary Art (MoCA) from 1979 to 1984—is the only person to have built two Fortune 500 companies in different industries (homebuilding and insurance). In August 2010, the Broads announced plans to finance their own contemporary art museum, located on Grand Avenue, across the street from MoCA and one block away from the Frank Gehry–designed Walt Disney Concert Hall. They wanted access to be free, “so that affordability isn’t a criteria to see the art,” said Eli Broad. “Edye and I have been deeply moved by contemporary art and believe it inspires creativity and provokes lively conversations.”
The museum exterior is provocative in itself. Architecture firm Diller Scofidio + Renfro—known for designing Boston’s Institute of Contemporary Art and renovating New York City’s Lincoln Center—created the gallery space, dubbed “the vault,” with a honeycomb-like “veil” exterior that lets natural light flow inside. While some museums are dimly lit or bathed in artificial light, the high-ceilinged Broad lets sunlight come in from all sides, creating a clean, crisp ambience.
The “veil” of The Broad lets sunlight come in from all sides, creating a clean, crisp ambience.
When it opened in September 2015, the Broad was an immediate hit—so while admission is free, you still need a ticket for your specific day and time, which can be ordered in advance online. Once inside, make your way to Yayoi Kusama’s Infinity Mirrored Room, a mirror-lined chamber with a seemingly endless LED light display. You provide your name and phone number and you’ll get two text messages alerting you when you should return. Once inside—you can go in alone or as a pair for 45 seconds—look in every direction to see how many copies of yourself you can see. It feels like you're in the middle of a Vegas show, or a parade of lights.
While you wait for your turn in the Infinity Mirrored Room, take the escalator upstairs to the third floor, so that you can navigate the museum in chronological order. Begin with the major artists who came to prominence in the 1950s, including Jasper Johns, Robert Rauschenberg, and Cy Twombly. Then move into the 1960s and the Pop art of Roy Lichtenstein, Ed Ruscha, and Andy Warhol, followed by the 1980s and ’90s with Jean-Michel Basquiat, Keith Haring, Damien Hirst, and Jeff Koons. When you return downstairs, complete your visit with the museum’s rotating exhibits, and make time for the interesting short film about the Broads in the first-floor video gallery.
For some refuelling afterward, sit down for contemporary cuisine at restaurant Otium, across the outdoor plaza from the museum, or explore the food stalls of the Grand Central Market, which is about a 10-minute walk away.
Insider Tip: If the timed tickets “sell” out on the day you want to go, you can still wait in the standby line. That typically takes at least 30 minutes during the week, and an hour or more on weekends. The museum is closed on Mondays.