Harvest Time & The Crush

Foodies will find a little slice of heaven in Yountville. With more Michelin stars per capita than any other place in North America, this little village could keep you happily munching for days—if you didn’t care about calories. But who cares—this is what holidays are all about: beautiful settings and incredible food. 

The man who really put Yountville on the culinary map is the incomparable Chef Thomas Keller. He may have a worldwide empire of restaurants now, but The French Laundry, which he took over in 1994, was a breakthrough, a true destination restaurant in Napa wine country. It’s still outstanding, earning a coveted three Michelin stars, and requiring bookings several months in advance. (Try for lunch and you may have a better chance.) Today, you can practically call the town ‘Keller-ville’: he has also opened his more relaxed but also excellent Bouchon, as well as the forget-the-calorie-counter Bouchon Bakery. Other amazing restaurants include Redd, Etoile, Bistro Jeanty and Bottego, where celebrity chef Michael Chiarello focuses on ultra-fresh Italian cuisine. 

Also visit in-town tasting rooms; try Ma(i)sonry Napa Valley, sample wines from more than 20 vintner partners on the back patio of the historic stone building, and you’ll feel like you’ve slipped away to Provence. Wines are great, but if you want to switch things up, sip a poolside cocktail at the Dive Bar at Bardessono, an ultra-swanky (and LEED-platinum certified) boutique luxury resort. (Parties are held the last Thursday of the month, June to August).

Though there was a time when this town was often passed over in the rush to get deep into Napa Valley wine country, that’s not the way to go now. Savvy visitors know that this bustling town on the banks of the Napa River has undergone a renaissance, with a major influx of celebrity-chef restaurants, appealing parks, river walks and upmarket accommodations. And tasting rooms—lots and lots of tasting rooms. Nearly 30 such locations, with settings ranging from coolly sophisticated to kickback relaxed, are all within walking distance in the town centre. Streets are also dotted with a tempting array of shops, cafes and chocolatiers, and leafy neighbourhood streets are the place to find some of the classiest B&Bs in California.

Highlights around town include Oxbow Market, a lively food hall where you can slurp fresh oysters, sample house-made charcuterie, peruse chocolate truffles with names like ‘Tart Cherry Cabernet’ and find endless other ways to stuff yourself silly. Along the riverfront, step into the minimalist beauty of Morimoto Napa, enjoy ultra-fresh seafood at Celadon, or cross the river to sample Chef Ken Frank’s elegant offerings at La Toque. For overnight stays, consider big city chic option Andaz Napa, or one-of-a-kind B&B options such as ultra-elegant Churchill Manor or friendly Cedar Gables Inn.

For a truly unique (car-free) way to explore the region, settle into a cushy appointed vintage train carriage to sightsee, dine and sample wines aboard the Napa Valley Wine Train, departing from the Napa town centre year-round. 

Whether by foot, car or train, experts will do the talking while they show you the ins and outs of the valleys. Van and bus tours can be booked through hotels or tourism offices; also ask about guided bike tours. On a 90-minute walking tour of Downtown Napa, learn about the region’s history—the Gold Rush, Prohibition and the boom years during World War II. Roll through the region in vintage train carriages, decked out with velvet curtains and finery, on the Napa Valley Wine Train, offering a variety of tours—including a multi-course meal and wine. In Sonoma County, hitch a ride on a replica of a late 1890s San Francisco cable car to enjoy tastings at four wineries, plus a catered lunch by local favourite, the Girl & the Fig. For do-it-yourself touring, consider getting a single or multi-day pass to enjoy wine tastings in a given area; having one of these passports, like the one for the Wine Trail region (Dry Creek, Russian River and Alexander Valley) might also net you discounts on wine purchases, private guided tours and behind-the-scenes walks with winemakers.