Volcanoes, Geysers, & Hot Springs

Soaring to 14,179 feet high, this magnificent volcano scrapes the turquoise-blue sky, north of Redding, a totem from almost anywhere in the northern part of the state. And while some mountains climb gradually, this one rises from surrounding flatlands in such perfect, cone-shaped, snow-capped majesty that it seems almost unreal—the perfect projection of a child’s fantasy of what a mountain should be.  

Yet this is no childish vision—it’s a very real, very big volcano (last erupted in 1786) that is on the bucket list of serious mountaineers. (Famed naturalist John Muir wrote that his ‘blood turned to wine’ when he first caught sight of the Fuji like peak.) Reaching the summit of the mountain is for the hardiest of climbers; ask about guide services at The Fifth Season outdoor shop in the town of Mt. Shasta, a New Age-y enclave on the mountain’s west side. (Get the town’s vibe at The Crystal Room, a prism-filled visual feast.) 

"Yet this is no childish vision—it’s a very real, very big volcano (last erupted in 1786) that is on the bucket list of serious mountaineers."

Fortunately, you don’t have to conquer the peak to enjoy this alpine paradise. Easy paths loop through wild flower-filled meadows and into cool forests. One of the prettiest trails, a mellow two-mile path along the McCloud River on the mountain’s south, leads to a trio of waterfalls—all beautiful, though Middle Falls is the real head-turner. There’s camping, caverns and world-class fly-fishing too. Most winters, there’s skiing too, at low-key and local Mt. Shasta Ski Park, on the mountain’s western slope.

There are few places in California—and maybe on the planet—that can make you think you might just be on Mars. This is one of them. At this high-desert preserve, on the eastern side of the towering Sierra, ghostlike tufa towers trim the edges of a one-million-year-old lake, the salty remnant of an ancient inland sea. Over a million sea birds feed on the surface and swirl overhead—an incredible show of life in this seemingly desolate setting. 

Get yourself oriented with a visit to the excellent interpretive centre, just off U.S. 395 north of Lee Vining and Tioga Pass (the only route into Yosemite from this side of the mountains). Inside, exhibits shed light on the natural and human history of the Mono Basin, including major environmental challenges caused by water diversions that almost killed the lake. (Huge efforts by the local Mono Lake Committee, with a gift-filled shop in Lee Vining, have successfully saved it.) Wrap-around decks offer expansive views of the dramatic setting—Sierra peaks to the west, shrub-dotted desert to the east and views of the lake and its tiny Wizard Island, an important nesting site for Western gulls and other sea birds. Bird walks are offered at 8am. Fridays and Sundays, mid-May through Labor Day (early September). The Visitor Centre is closed Dec-Mar.

Trails lace the area; you can explore rehabilitated Lee Vining Creek riparian habitat and the region’s cinder cones, blanketed with obsidian and pumice, or walk in the South Tufa Area, with close-up views of the lake-trimming calcium-carbonate spires and knobs formed by the interaction of freshwater springs flowing into the ultra-alkaline lake water that’s 2½ times as salty as the ocean. Naturalists lead free tufa walks at the South Tufa Area three times daily from late June until Labour Day in September. Guided paddles are also offered through Caldera Kayaks.

Designated a National Natural Landmark in 1973 and located just off historic Route 66, Amboy Crater is an example of geology creating geometry- it’s an almost perfectly symmetrical volcanic cinder cone. This 250 foot/76 metre bump in the Mojave National Preserve landscape provides panoramic views of some astounding features, including a 26 mile long lava flow, Bristol Dry Lake, and the Marble Mountains. 

A maintained trail climbs gently around the cone’s western half, leading into the breach where basaltic lava poured out over a vast area, creating lava lakes, collapsed lava tubes and sinks, and spatter cones. Once you’re in the cone’s centre, hike straight into the caldera, or climb one of the steep trails to the rim. The view from the 1,508 foot wide rim will awe you as you take in the vastness of the Mojave Desert, where faraway cars on desert highways look like miniature toys against this epic landscape.

As with other Mojave locations, you’ll not want to hike here from late spring into early autumn when temperatures routinely top 37°C. So time your visit in winter or early spring not just for more comfortable temperatures, but also for the desert wild flower bloom, which can begin as early as February, depending on winter rains.

The truth is that the name Fossil Falls is a bit of a misnomer. After all, there are neither fossils nor a waterfall here. But a walk through these polished lava formations about 36 miles north-west of the desert city of Ridgecrest is a highlight of any drive along Highway 395.

This remarkable site was formed by the interaction of rushing water from the Owens River (which in wetter prehistoric times flowed at a much higher rate) with lava that poured from nearby volcanoes as recently as 20,000 years ago. The result is this surreal, convoluted chasm of shiny, sculpted black lava. A short trail leads to the falls, which you can observe from above or, for a closer look, follow a trail to carefully descend the falls (hold onto children’s hands as footing can be tricky).

Insider's Tip: Night skies in this remote high desert locale are also spectacular; check out the nightly celestial show from the Fossil Falls campground with 11 sites (potable water and bathroomss on site), plus picnic tables and fire rings.