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Big Sur by Tom Story

Trip 5-7 days 10 stops

Highway One Classic

Follow one of the world’s most celebrated routes on this coast-hugging drive. You can start this trip at either end. Here, the trip begins in San Diego, at the southern end of the state, then travels north to beach towns, the bustle and excitement of Los Angeles, through elegant Santa Barbara, then north to Big Sur. Continue to more beaches and attractions in Carmel, Monterey, and Santa Cruz. End in the ultimate “City by the Bay,” San Francisco

Learn more about the Big Sur component of this scenic drive by listening to the California Now Podcast.


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John Bahu

San Diego

San Diego
California dreamers, endless coastline & sunshine

Start in one of California’s sunniest destinations, not just in terms of the weather, but also in attitude. In the heart of the city, shop in Horton Plaza, or catch a baseball game at Petco Park. See the giant pandas at the San Diego Zoo.

Next, explore one of the city’s diverse neighbourhoods, Little Italy, North Park, South Park, East Village—pedestrian-friendly enclaves are the epicentre of San Diego’s burgeoning culinary movement, progressive art scene, and craft beer boom.

Start your own sampling in North Park, the neighborhood bordering Balboa Park’s northeast side. Along 30th Street and University Avenue, enjoy farm-to-table cuisine and boutique wines at Urban Solace, or wing it at local favorite Carnitas’ Snack Shop (the menu changes daily depending on fresh produce and other ingredients available that day). Work off lunch by heading down to San Diego’s sparkling Mission Bay to rent stand-up paddleboards or kayak

Finish with dining and dancing after dark in the lively Gaslamp Quarter. Splurge on a night at one of California’s iconic lodgings, the Hotel del Coronado, on idyllic Coronado Island, connected to the city by an arcing bridge that makes you feel like you’re a million miles away.

Drive along San Diego’s coastline north—with a visit to beautiful La Jolla (elegant shopping and sidewalk cafés abound)—then pick up the beginning of Highway One in Dana Point, which leads through Orange County to Huntington Beach.

Next Stop
Huntington Beach (93mi/150km; 1hr32min)
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Kodiak Greenwood

Huntington Beach

Huntington Beach
Endless summer, surfer's paradise

Plan at least a day to hang out and get the surf vibe in this classic beach town, where the main drag heads straight to the beach. Southern California’s beach culture thrives along this city’s curving shoreline, where you can bicycle down an oceanfront path, play volleyball, and, of course, surf. Surfing definitely sets the tone in Huntington Beach, and even if you never grab a board, there’s shopping at leading surf retailers and great viewing of some of the local dudes riding the waves alongside the landmark Huntington Pier.

From the pier, it’s a short walk to Main Street’s stylish boutiques and restaurants, many with sidewalk tables or decks that let you bask in Huntington Beach’s fresh ocean breezes and sun-soaked afternoons. You can get a taste of the Surf City life with stays at Huntington Beach luxurious oceanfront resorts. Or discover more natural sides of town by trying horseback riding in 354-acre/143-hectare Huntington Central Park, and with bird watching and by exploring trails in Bolsa Chica Ecological Reserve, a restored wetlands and one of Southern California’s most vital coastal habitats.

Next, follow the coast north to California’s largest metropolitan area, Los Angeles, with big city museums, dining, entertainment, and other attractions.

Next Stop
Los Angeles (37mi/60km; 33min)
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Los Angeles

Los Angeles
Rooftop Restaurants, A-List Celebrities

California’s largest city has nonstop action and things to do, but it can be a challenge to navigate, so planning your trip in advance is a big plus. Start in the coastal city of Santa Monica, with a wide, uncrowded beach, a signature pier topped by carnival rides and restaurants, and outstanding shopping at Third Street Promenade and fancy Santa Monica Place shopping centre (great for rooftop dining with ocean and city views). Follow the Santa Monica Boulevard northeast to visit legendary Beverly Hills, where cars with tinted windows pull up to Chanel and other deluxe boutiques along Rodeo Drive. Continue east to Hollywood to stroll the Hollywood Walk of Fame and visit TCL Chinese Theatre.

Drive east to visit hip and historic downtown Los Angeles (or simply DTLA). An influx of new residents has helped energize the area, and downtown’s re-emergence has also been spurred by such attractions as Grand Park, an urban oasis with views stretching from the Music Center (including Walt Disney Concert Hall) to City Hall. Vintage buildings have been transformed, including the ornate 1927 United Artists building on Broadway, where the Ace Hotel Downtown Los Angeles offers stylish digs and a restaurant. Crowds flock to the sports and entertainment combo of Staples Center and LA LIVE, where you can also see music artefacts (Elvis’s sheet music, Michael’s glove) at the Grammy Museum and catch concerts at the Nokia Theatre. Finish your L.A. experience with a visit to Universal Studios Hollywood, with movie-themed rides and back-lot tours.

Return to the coast to drive north past Malibu and on to one of California’s prettiest cities, romantic Santa Barbara.

Next Stop
Santa Barbara (95mi/153km; 1hr38min)
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Santa Barbara

Santa Barbara
With its Mediterranean climate and cache of culture, this seaside city deserves to be called the “American Riviera”

Next stop on your coastal cruise is this elegant city hugging the coastal hills, where classic Spanish architecture gives the region a sun-washed European look straight out of the Riviera.

Though Santa Barbara may have a burnished antique look, the current fantasy of Spanish colonial-style architecture—all red-tiled roofs and whitewashed courtyards covered in climbing bougainvillea—didn’t take root until 1925, when an earthquake damaged downtown buildings, making room for a whole new style. And in this case it was a romantic look back, a nod to the region’s first Spanish visitors more than 150 years before. The elegant building style has stuck around, and become the city’s visual touchstone.

Perfect architecture, and perfect setting. Tucked into the lee of the Santa Ynez Mountains and protected from the brunt of Pacific wind and waves, “The American Riviera” enjoys a dreamy Mediterranean climate, with plenty of sunny days and mild winters. Add wine country producing award-winning vintages, outdoor adventures on land and sea, big-city arts and entertainment, and you have a city that’s a poster child for the California good life.

Stroll State Street for excellent shops and dining, launch a kayak from East Beach to paddle under Stearns Wharf, visit the classic Old Mission Santa Barbara, and tour the 1782 presidio for a look at original adobes like El Cuartel, the second oldest surviving building in the state.

Now drive north to sample the region’s legendary vintages in beautiful, uncrowded wine country.

Next Stop
Santa Ynez Valley (31mi/50km; 39min)
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Laura Flippen

Santa Ynez Wine Country

Santa Ynez Wine Country
Tour an iconic wine region with fog, sun, and plenty of Pinot

This next stop encourages you to slow down, relax, and really savour your surroundings—and the amazing wines produced here. The Santa Ynez Valley, just north of Santa Barbara, is one of most diverse grape-growing regions in the county. Near the Pacific, fog and cool air rolls in at dusk, ideal for Chardonnay and Pinot Noir grapes. Fifty kilometres inland at Happy Canyon, it’s sunny and hot—perfect for Bordeaux varieties like Cab Franc and Merlot.

And scenic? How about rolling hills, endless vines, and ancient oaks to the horizon. Between the wines and the views, it’s easy to see why the region became a star in the 2004 surprise hit, Sideways. Take a self-guided tour of the film’s many shoot locations in Buellton, Los Alamos, and Los Olivos—even if you don’t remember the movie, these places are all worth a visit.

Where to go? Why not start at Sunstone Winery. It has a cool wine cave, sustainably grown grapes, and a spectacular limestone chateau available for overnight stays. Another tip: buy a pass from Santa Ynez Valley Wine Country Association to save on tastings at 15 participating boutique wineries.

Next stop is a visit to one of the state’s—if not the country’s—remarkable structures, the ornate compound known as Hearst Castle.

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Kodiak Greenwood

Hearst Castle

Hearst Castle
Wraparound Views, Lavish Designs

From Highway One, you’ll see this incredible complex of ornately embellished towers and buildings perched high on a coastal hilltop, like a coastal Shangri-La with 360° views. Park in the main lot of the state park grounds, then check in at the visitor centre to ride one of the park’s shuttle buses up to the castle for a guided tour. (Make online reservations well in advance, especially during the busy summer months.) Lavishly designed by Julia Morgan (California’s first female licensed architect), as the private residence of publishing magnate William Randolph Hearst, the complex, completed in 1947, is an extraordinary temple to opulence and excess. Now showcased within one of California’s most visited state parks, it is a must-see to end all must sees, an eye-popping extravaganza with a 165-room castle, 127 acres/51 hectares of terraced gardens, fountains, and pools.

In fact, the castle’s two pools are standout attractions. The outdoor Neptune Pool, 104 feet/32 metres in length and with an oil-burning heating system, evokes ancient Greece and Rome, with marble statues of Neptune and Nereid guarding over the aquatic paradise. The second, smaller indoor Roman Pool has the look of a decadent Roman bath, with rich details including cobalt blue and gold smalti, or glass tiles. Look up to see intricate mosaics depicting a star-filled night sky, spreading across the roof and dome. The pool is surrounded by eight marble sculptures of Greek and Roman gods, goddesses, and heroes, carved by Italian sculptor Carlo Freter.

From Hearst Castle, you can backtrack south on Highway One and continue to the next stop in Paso Robles, or head north 15.5 miles/25 kilometers for a worthy out-and-back trip on Highway One’s spectacular, twisting roads that lead to Ragged Point. Take in the views of crashing waves against plunging cliffs from the patio of the Ragged Point Inn. Towering 122 metres above the Pacific Ocean, this oceanfront locale is a prime viewing spot for whales, dolphins, and elephant seals, and is considered the “Gateway to Big Sur.” Visiting Ragged Point will ensure you see the iconic panoramas of the rugged California coastline.

Next Stop
Paso Robles (40mi/64km; 50min)
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Tony Hertz/Alamy

Paso Robles

Paso Robles
Wine tasting and mineral hot springs await in these rolling hills

After venturing to Ragged Point, head back south down Highway 1 and pull over near Piedras Blancas Rookery to see the famous Elephant Seals that birth, breed, and rest on the beach five miles north of Hearst Castle. Turn left onto vineyard-filled Highway 46 and continue on U.S. Highway 101 North to reach the growing wine country destination of Paso Robles. This San Luis Obispo County town once held the title of the world’s largest concentration of almonds but nowadays, visitors flock to the rolling hills for the mineral hot springs, wine and beer tasting, agritourism, and outdoor activities.

In the mood for tasting? Just pick your drink of choice. Wine is the main game in town, with more than 200 wineries in the area. Venture to the contemporary tasting room of Tablas Creek Vineyards, or head to the industrial-chic Tin City for a concentration of 20 boutique wineries under one roof. Follow the Paso Robles Distillery Trail for samples of distilled spirits, or taste beer at the oldest brewery in town (Firestone Walker Brewery) or at the beer garden of Barrelhouse Brewing Company.

Browse the local boutiques and art galleries of the historic downtown square, and complete your stop with a soak in one of the thermal springs—found at River Oaks Hot Springs SpaFranklin Hot Springs, or select rooms at the Paso Robles Inn.

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Monterey & Carmel

Monterey & Carmel
Romance and a big blue sea

Wrapped by the Pacific on three sides, the Monterey Peninsula at once offers wind-tossed beaches and quiet coves, fine dining and casual eats, early history and postmodern art. You’ll first arrive in artsy Carmel-by-the-Sea (locals just call it Carmel), a town that deftly straddles the balance point of rich history and new wealth. The Carmel Mission is one of the state’s most beautiful, and shady trails fan out from the site into lush Mission Trail Nature Preserve. Stroll the white sands of dog-friendly Carmel Beach, or explore a mosaic of meadows, wave-battered bluffs, and wind-twisted trees at nearby Point Lobos State Reserve. Come back to explore Carmel’s main village, with gallery-lined streets, cosy gastropubs, and even cosier inns.

Continue around the arc of Monterey Bay to visit the world-renowned Monterey Bay Aquarium, with its psychedelic jellies and bat-ray petting tanks is a must-visit, especially for families. Mesmerizing tanks and exhibits showcase more than 35,000 animals and plants representing over 550 species—a large number of them California natives, including California sea otters. Insider tip: Get tickets online in advance to skip long lines.

Step outside and find yourself among hotels, shops, and restaurants filling former fish-packing plants along Cannery Row, made famous by local author John Steinbeck. Rent bikes to follow the coast south around the peninsula to Pacific Grove, Asilomar State Beach, and the sea-and-spray beauty (and gazillion-dollar homes and celebrated Pebble Beach golf courses) along the 17-Mile Drive.

Continue north to the boho-funky beachfront town of Santa Cruz, where surfers carve waves and kids play on a classic waterfront boardwalk.

Next Stop
Santa Cruz (44mi/71km; 49min)
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Tai Power Seeff

Santa Cruz

Santa Cruz
Surf's up at NorCal's friendly beach getaway

This ultra-mellow beach town has a decided split personality—and both sides are cool. First, there’s the woo-hoo family fun of the Santa Cruz Beach Boardwalk, a yesteryear-style esplanade lined with classic coasters, arcade games, corn dogs, and a historic carousel. Then there’s downtown Santa Cruz, where local college students browse for vintage and boho chic, and relaxed restaurants focus on organic, local ingredients.

But at its heart, Santa Cruz is a surf town. This is where the sport was originally introduced in California, and top surfers know that the place to be is Steamer Lane. Need more proof? Nearby lives Jack O’Neill legendary surfer and force behind the O’Neill empire, pioneer of the wetsuit and elder statesman of everything surf in the Golden State. 

In the centre of town, away from the beachfront crowds, Pacific Avenue offers many shops with a local twist, including the venerable O’Neill’s where surfer guys and girls can find a bikini or board shorts, flip-flops, or a wetsuit—the creation and design of the city’s favorite son, the legendary Jack O’Neill (he still lives a beach ball toss from the beach here). The independent Bookshop Santa Cruz is packed with happy locals, especially during frequent author talks, and many other boutiques offer art, clothing, and home furnishings (check out the gorgeous artisanal glass at Annieglass).

Next, travel to your last stop—the beautiful “City by the Bay,” San Francisco.

Next Stop
San Francisco (73mi/117km; 1hr20min)
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Myles McGuinness

San Francisco

San Francisco
Sparkling Bay, Magic City

Finish your trip in one of the world’s great cities. For a novel way to visit “the City by the Bay” park your car and explore by foot, bike, and unique public transportation. Pedal bikes across the Golden Gate Bridge and back, then explore the lush Presidio, a former military base that’s now a park, or head into Golden Gate Park to visit museums and row across a secret gem, Stow Lake.

Continue along the flat Embarcadero to Fisherman’s Wharf and the Exploratorium Science and Learning Museum. Park your bikes and hop a cable car to ride over the hill to the high-end shops and enormous Macy’s, NikeTown, Saks Fifth Avenue, and Neiman Marcus around bustling Union Square, with a stop for Italian pastries and cappuccino at Emporio Rulli right in the square.

Nearby, stroll boutique-lined Maiden Lane—pedestrian only thoroughfare during the day, when cafes set up tables and chairs right in the street. Nearby Westfield Mall, a dazzling complex on once scruffy but now spiffed up Market Street, glitters with even more stores, including an deluxe food court on the lower level.

At night, catch a show in the theatre district, or head to North Beach to see Beach Blanket Babylon, a raucous and irreverent San Francisco institution. For more nightlife and dining, stroll Valencia Street in the Mission, a trendy and eclectic hotbed of restaurants and bars, and awesome late-night scoops at Bi-Rite Ice Cream—a sweet way to finish your road trip.